Also tried a few more tests on the handbrake of fail. 100% confirmed i am conected post proportioning valve. I also put my bob janes on. These tyres arent very grippy, so a good test for doing skids. And i disconnected the DCCD. Still no joy.

I also did a little test of holding the HB on, and driving a small amount to 'heat' up the brake pads a bit incase it increased grip. Still no lock up. I did promptly get out and feel the rear disc rotor temps by hand and can confirm that both left and right seam to working as both rotors were quite warm. Fronts were cold as would expect for a short drive. So this indicates that each side is plumbed correrctly.

And i also tried a few cable drum brake handbrakies aswell. The standard brake locks up the bob janes with ease, in a straight line as i have been testing the hydro. So the hydro is definitely WORSE than the regular park brake.

Not sure where to go from here other than try a different rear brake setup?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Are you still plumbed through the abs module?

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Get someone who's 100% on hydro setups to throw some fresh eyes on it before you start ripping rear brakes out, especially if the cable is locking up the rears.

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Fuck your signature

I might be way off the mark but I think you are asking too much of your HH cylinder to compress the fluid through all that extra piping. I don't think your cylinder has the travel to compress the fluid enough.

HH in ye olde datto had a line plumbed how Amtrapid explained with a pipe running from the master cylinder (foot brake) through the firewall along the trans tunnel, bias valve mounted next to the gear stick, into the HH and on to the rear calipers via the tunnel.

Oem piping to the rears was removed. This creates the shortest path and puts the piping inside the car away from rocks, roots & ruts.

My HH used to lock the rears and stall the engine if I didn't push the clutch in quickly enough.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Yeah your piping is too long. Fluid may be incompressible but that length of hard line will still flex and you will lose the pressure. Get rid of abs!

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Yes ABS is in place. But it is before the handbrake. It *should* have zero bearing on things. The handbrake master only pressurizes the piping after the handbrake master. ABS isnt activating either.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

This is what im gonna have to do. Ill have to take some time off new year and maybe get the car into somewhere for a looking over.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

I dont think this is the case. Infact if anything, kinda the opposite. I think my HB master is too BIG, or the rear calipers too SMALL. I am not maxing out the stroke on the HB master. So that means that there isnt too much piping to pressurize or too much rear caliper piston volume to fill. If i was maxing out the stroke on HB MC, then you could say the HB MC was too small or the rear pistons too big, or too much flexible piping to fill etc. I think the area ratio between the HB MC and the rear pistons is wrong. Either the calipers are too small or MC too big.
This is something i have considered. I havent changed things there yet, But i dont think its the cause just pondering the setup. If you look at the setup, there is only approx 2 meters on each circuit ADDED post handbrake master cylinder. Infact its about the same as what the pipe length as stock is from MC to ABS to prop valve. From the output of the HB MC it is 1m of braided brake hose, and 1m of hardline up to where it ties into the stock circuit. Yes, the entire setup adds about 4m to each circuit (8m total). But only 2m post handbrake per caliper. Running the lines into the rear calipers directly in the inside will cut down on pipe length. Maybe saving approx 3m per circuit post handbrake. But in the scheme of things, this is very little. Just look at how much pipe length is in the stock brake circuit for example.

The distance from main foot brake master cylinder, up to ABS, then back to the prop valve is also about 2m per circuit as stock. If you include the standard hill holder on top of that, its about an additional 3m. So i dont think pipe length is the issue.

Brake hydraulics are all to do with pressure and very little to do with flow volume. When you put your foot on the brakes. You only have to move the caliper piston a fraction of a mm to ebgage the brakes. Volume is relatively little. Its all pressure that does the work. You wont get any pressure drop over a small run of hose like that. Things like pipe flex and caliper flex and fluid compressability etc will only affect pressure on initial application, holding the brake on will negate any effects of pressure drop from line flex etc as it takes up the slack.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

ABS is before the handbrake. It should have zero effect on what happens post handbrake.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Is the handbrake master cylinder using its full travel?

Or do you need to adjust the lever pivot ratio to get full travel of the cylinder?

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