brake fluid is brand new. I put maybe 4 liters through the system when bleeding after the handbrake install and hill holder delete. its castrol performance dot4. same type of fluid i always use.

But alot has changed since last race.


Pads. Stock Wilwoods to QFMs.

Master cylinder. Forester to STi. (This should increase pedal feel and decrease pedal throw. I have kind of opposite symptoms.

Rear Bias Valve. Forester to STi. (I dont think this will make to much difference to pedal feel / braking effectiveness.)

Hill Holder Delete. (Shouldnt negativly affect braking at all)

Twin cylinder kit and associated hardlines. (shouldnt affect braking either, unless an airlock maybe.) All lines are hardlines, so should be no 'flex' in the circuit.

Ive bled the system a massive amount. put about 4 bottles of fluid through it. and i am 99% certain it isnt an airlock. The STi MC was used. But i think its in good condition. As said, it has a furm pedal and doesnt sink under force, so i think its doing what it should.



My symptoms.
When cool / street driving
Pedal is firm. Doesnt sink to the floor. Brakes work well. Braking is very linear and i cant really fault it at all. (These QFMs actually feel better on the street than the Wilwoods.) So i dont think i have a MC issue, or any airlocks. The fluid level remains constant, and i have checked all fittings and bleeders multiple times for leaks. Im confident there is no leaks.

Once hot and driven hard. The brakes lack braking effectiveness. The pedal feels squishy and you have more travel than i would expect. The braking response is linear to pedal effort. But it just lacks braking effectivness. They had a noticable fade in performance that seamed directly corellated to heat.

I can only really compare to how it was before all those mods and pads change as pretty much everything changed from last time i raced in one go. But it feels like these pads are a down grade from the wilwood compound. Im sure some people like them, and they probably feel good coming from crap pads. But for me they feel like a step backwards. Again. it may not be pads. I just suspect it is.


As said earlier. I only got these pads as my Wilwood order never came, and I NEEDED some pads. GSL had these in stock and also recommended them after explaining the use. But I wont be persisting with them. I have already ordered a set of EBC yellows. (just because i found a listing for these calipers.) And i may even look for another set of pads. Perhaps some genuine Wilwoods in one of thier premium compounds.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

there are alot of things thats possible to do on RR. That cannot be done via verso.

For example. When i bypassed my fuel pump duty controller. I wanted all the tables set at 100% all the time. as i actually use the output from the FPC to switch my fuel pump relay. And i didnt want that to affect whether the relay is pulled in properly. BUt this could not be changed via verso. And i know it can on RR.

(reason i use the output of the FPC is so the relay is NOT just ignition switched, and has the safety mechanism of turning off if the engine stalls etc.)

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Can Shaun tune with RomRaider rather than verso? Although...sounds like you will have a shiny new ECU some time soon.

i dont know? im not gonna go in there and tell him how to tune. he might be able to do some RR tricks. Im sure he keeps up to date with tuner tech etc. But i think he is of the opinion that there is only so far you can go with a stock ecu before you start flogging a dead horse.

I know he pulled my tune off the ECU with a Tactrix when i was last there as his cable was dicky. (i had modified a couple of things since he originally tuned it, so it was easier to use my ECU rom than his saved copy)

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Best run of the day. As usual still plenty of errors and room to improve. Missed gears at the corner after the shi-cane on the main straight. over shot the braking at the right hander at the back after the left skidpan area.



Also results from FB.

https://m.facebook.com/MCMotorsportW...type=3&theater

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

More progress on the old skid stick today. My order of rod ends has arrived and i have mounted them in, and even fabbed up a lever out of some steel bar. Had to cut it and weld it to get the angle. The thing would do the job. But it weighs over half a kilo as is. I will probably still get a custom laser cut lever made. (with weight saving holes cut into it) I just wanted this so i can mock it up and make sure its alright. I might wait until the plumbing arrives and i hook it into the hydro circuit so i can see the throw needed etc, then get it made with the perfect angles and length.

As you can see. All moving parts a premium quality spherical joints. And the hardware is all grade 12.9 high tensile. The nuts are all steel 'pinch' lock nuts. (no pathetic ny-locks here)

The frame is painted in primer ready for a final coat of Metalic Charcoal. Again, ill leave that until last so i know everything is working, then give it a smick finish.

I still obviously need to do the plumbing. (parts enroute). And also mount in the DCCD cut out switch, and also fit in a return spring.

The mechanism feels tight. Theres no freeplay or unwanted lateral movement. The action feels smooth. Im not even sure i will need a return spring given how smooth the bearings are.

Cant wait for my custom CNC'd handle. That will be the cherry on top. There is some preview pics at the bottom.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Happy wand stick looks good

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race tape y pipe running .05 bar till spares turn up.

figured out a way to fit additional return springs to increase lever "feel" and also increase the speed that the lever returns after use. Instead of using an extension spring to pull the lever back. I have put a compression spring on each cylinder push rod. 7/16inch spring fits nicely over the 10mm rod. And will push the rod ends back after they have compressed. Wont know if its needed until ive plumbed the system. But I have provisions for it it does require a little extra spring.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Awesome! I assume you have lengthy arms? :P

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