I like it , I see both point of views with the front flare but if it affects wheel clearance its understandable . You will have to be mighty careful with any ground object eg slight curb or speed hump , otherwise you might destroy the front pod edge of the side skirt .

The lip will work well towards the whole look, but the wider rubber and change in wheel offset would probably not only widen your track and also fit in the arch area mint . Will look awesome when done

i have my eye on a syms SG rear wing. just waiting for the seller to remove it from his parts car. its extremely rare. Infact its the only one in australia. and i have never ever seen another in japan auctions etc. the sysms wing is the big wail tail wing for the sg forester. it probably wont do anything for aero. and probably weighs twice as much as the sti wing. but damn they are sexy.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

OK here goes.

First one is "The Smurf" a track car I built.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Next was the car I was working on but never finished due to moving here.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

keen to know what product you used to seal over / rust proof / rock guard the area of cut metal? At the rear i need to cut into the inner arch and outer panel, then re-join the panels higher up. Then find a good way to properly seal and protect the parts from the elements and from debris getting flicked up off the tyres.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

They were welded and then sealed with a seam sealer applied by fingers rubbed into the welds. Then I applied U-Pol Gravitex over that followed by 2 pack paint over the top.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

handle is getting closer. Plumbing should be here this week i hope with the exception of 4 unions that are on back order.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Its ready.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Progress on the hydro has stalled again. Another hickup. The banjo bolts i ordered for the hoses are too large. They have the correct inside bolt diameter. But the out side bulb section is too big. they foul each other due to how close the STi master cylinder fittings are together. But i have found another banjo fitting that is compatible with the hose im using (goodridhe 600 -3.) so i just need to wait for that to arrive.

in the mean time, more progress on the wide kit.

fully cut out the original gaurds. Front was easy, just remove the wheel arch liners, then attack it with 5inch angle grinder with a 1mm cut off wheel. I re-jigged the front fender flares to allow slightly more wheel clearance. Its the front half of the archs that will be the first to foul (due to the castor), so i set the flare up with even more clearance in that area. At its peak i have removed 50mm of material.





At the rear, things are a little more difficult. I am limited on how much of the original fender i can remove by 2 things. First is the rear door limits how high i can position the flare. The second issue is the way the outer panel seams to the inner arch.

I have chopped it back until the opening in the outer panel is inline with the inside panel arch. Doing this means you are chopping out the original seam joint between the 2 panels. So there is a 30cm or so section where the 2 panels are floating free. So i had to come up with a way to rejoin the 2 panels. welding is an option. But im not even gonna try it with an arc welder. And even with a mig, i am worried about cooking the paint meaning it would need re-painting. and thats something i want to avoid. So i settled on rivetting the seam back together. I rivetted the 2 panels directly to each other at the front and rear sections as that was simple task because i did not need to cut so high due to the curvature of the wheel. For the section directly above the top of wheel I could not rivet the 2 panel together because i cut all the way up to inside surface of the arch. So i bent up a 90° section of 1.6mm thick alloy sheet and riveted that to lock both panels together.

Before i set any rivets. I thouroughly cleaned back the surfaces and applied metal primer to the drill holes and cut sections. I then injected a sealant into the gap, then i riveted the whole lot together. On the inside, i was able to reach in from the wagon area and apply a liberal bead of sealant to the seam and work it in from above. Once dry i am going to apply an underbody stone gaurd paint to the bottom seam. From there i can easily bolt the flare on.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

made a dirt shield for the pod filter. only covers the side thats open to the wheel well.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there