Great work mate! Looked awesome when i saw it the other day!

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Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/

needs moar Tino gold foil

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Fuck your signature

bram daddy this is fkn awesomeeeee

all up i used 3 sheets. and i would of had maybe just enough to do a turbo shield left over if i was very carefull with my measurements and cutting.

The gold stuff was the DCI Sheet Hot XT Ultimate. (1100c) And the new stuff i went with the DCI Sheet Hot XT 5000. (1000c) Both are suitable to be used on turbo headers and turbos etc. Its not cheap. But it seams like the best option ive seen yet. Ive had multiple parts ceramic coated. (at CIC peformance and other mobs over east and pre coated on pipes/turbos from the US) Ive used wrap. (magma wrap and titanium wrap). Ive used blankets (like the perrin exhaust/turbo blankets.) and ive used the Sheet hot. And in my opinion, the Sheet is the best. Because all the others are either ineffective or fall apart or can potentially soak up oil and then burn. Even my perrin turbo blanket has began to disintergrate.

With my new turbo, i didnt get the coated turbine housing option either as i think its a bit of a gimmick. My beatrush engine mounts, radiator fan shroud and wiring under the radiator and even the wheel arch liners where they go close to the headers all melted when i ran a set of ELH with just ceramic coating. it was the coating that comes with headers sold by PSR. I bought them second hand on ozfoz already coated. That coating seams crappier than the stuff CIC do.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

slowly more progress. i have fabricated a braket to hold the Radium surge pot. I have remade/modified all the hoses/fittings to plumb in the can and rails to a dead head system. from the original supply & return hardlines at the firewall, its a very short 6inch run into and out of the can. From the can regulators output to the fuel filter is another short 6 inch run. from the fuel filter there is a short run to where the A/c compressor used to be. At that spot it splits off to each rail. the splitter also mounts the fuel pressure guage and fuel pressure sender unit, and a pulsation damper. each rail also has a pulsation damper inbetween each injector. Being dead head, there is no return lines. As far as hose routing it is incredible short and efficient. hopefully bleeding the air will be easy. Once the air is bled, it should never see air again because the surge can wont allow air in, or fuel to bleed back. (i hope)

i need to find a 1/16 npt tap to tap a hole into the fuel pressure regulator cover for the manifold pressure sense. I wont to run an4 hose and fittings into it like my old reg. the standard nipple on it is pretty crap and keeps coming loose. not something i want to come loose either.... need the really really small 1/16 npt tap because there is not much meat to tap into in the reg cover. I was sure i had one, but my set only goes to 1/8th. so thats holding me up there.

also made an alarming discovery. the billet 175gph fuel filter element has collapsed? the body is an earls, and the element is a 10 micron earls 175 gph element. im pretty onto it with changing it too. thats the 3rd element ive put through it so far. im not sure if this means there is something wrong with the system. maybe its getting clogged, then creating a restriction and collapsing under the pumps pressure? or maybe 175gpg is not enough volume? maybe i need to go up a size, or do 2 filters in parralell? im going to pop into lost racing around the corner and ask them thier opinion on it. i need a couple of fittings anyways.

I made a snap decision to delete the forester hill holder mechanism. Fabbed up a hardline from the master cylinder direct to the abs modulator. And cut off the old hill holder hardlines and cable linkage. (no returning it back to standard now haha) probably should have done that when i did the handbrake setup. but its done now. just need to fit my new qfm ar1m pads and re-bleed the system again. (choose the ar1m s because my usa order of wilwoods never showed up. so i just got the ar1ms so i have something to buy me time to hunt for a better set. awesome service from gsl. ordered 7am in the morning, delivered 11am the next day.

I also have bypassed the heater core. and then started re-assembling everything on the engine/harness plugs etc. damn front drivers coil pack wiring and cam angle sensor wiring is piano string tight because the harness isnt long enough to go over the fat 3inch pipe. not sure what im going to do there. might extend the wires on that side.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Please note;


When bypassing the heater core it is strongly advisable to install a restrictor of some sort to regulate the coolant flow through the engine.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

ok. what size should i step down to?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

bought a 1/16 NPT tap this morning from Terravin Tools in Bacatta. Tapped out the fuel pressure reglator pressure nipple and fitted a #4 fitting.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Ok. So after speaking with Lost Racing about my Earls 175GPH filter collapsing, we have come to the conclusion that possibly my existing fuel hose (or something in my fuel system) is being eaten by the e85, then clogging the filter and then collapsing due to limited flow. As said, im pretty regular about changing out the filter. And that was the 3rd filter cartridge Ive put through it with rather limited KMs. The filter *should* easily flow more fuel than my injectors demand, and my previous pump could flow. (4 x 1000cc injectors X 60 min = 240 LPH at base pressure. DW300 = 320 LPH at base pressure. Filter 175 GPH = 662 LPH. obviously doesnt take into account 1.5bar of boost pressure on the fuel rail pressure, but even still, without doing the math, it should still flow ample amounts of juice) So the filter should flow plenty of fuel for my demand. So there should be no reason for it to collapse other than premature clogging? (perhaps thats why my last DW300 died???)

Let this be a warning to anyone running dedicated e85. Id double check all the hardware is acceptable for e85, and also do very frequent filter changes. Lost Racing also suggested to run an upper cylinder lube mixed with the fuel. Or even a castor oil mixed with the fuel. Or given that my car only gets used once a month, they suggested flushing the lines with PULP 98 after use.

So, with that in mind. I bit the bullet on new fuel delivery hosing and hose ends. (i had to change hose ends aswell as my existing standard cutter style AN hose ends are incompatible with the Speed Flow special teflon hose. I went with the Speed Flow 200 series hose and hose ends. All up i needed 2m of hose and 12 straight hose ends. One nice benifit of having an integrated regulator in the surge can, and a return-less system is it saved me a couple of hundred bucks worth of additional hose and fittings. The other benifet of the return less surge can is the filter now only has to filter the fuel the engine actually uses, not all the fuel that would bypass from the reg aswell.

So here is the new hoses made up. The 3 short hoses are from the hardline to and from the surge can and also up to the filter. The 3 longer hoses are from the fiter to the splitter block, and then down to each rail. I really liked the assembly of these hose ends over the conventional style. They are a little bit more compact, are very easy to assemble. (just need to remember to fit the tube nut BEFORE spreading the braid and inserting the olive) And the -6 teflon hose is alot smaller outside diameter which is nice.

Also note the old filter cartridge collapsed and full of grey stuff. Atleast with a cartridge style filter, you can see the inside of the system, unlike a regular inline filter which could hide a failure like this inside.

And lastly. See here for the location of the Rdium surge tank. This is looking in from the passenger wheel area.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

is being eaten by the e85!

Are you using bowser E85 (from United) or race fuel E85 from a retailer eg Maximum Motors