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  #151  
Old 07-10-2015, 11:30 AM
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Yeah. I wired them up exactly as if they were the main relay. I opened the old main relay up, and you can can see the way its supposed to work. 2 terminals for the coil. And then 4 terminals for the 2 pairs of contacts. It seams both contacts operate exactly the same. But are kept seperate for some reason. It would seam the contacts that operate the heater circuits stay on while the main relay is on. And I cant see how they could turn off without turning off the relay. They must be controlled and monitored on the negative side of the heaters by the ECU. Hence how it is able to detect a fault and log a code.

My only concern now is the relay is actually switched by the ECU. It controls the negative side of the coil. The original main relay coil is 80 ohm. My new relays are 90 ohm each. Which means together they will pull nearly double the current on the ECUs trigger for them. Hopefully it will be fine.

The old main relay didnt appear to have any diode/resistor protection against self induced spikes when the coil field collapses. Which i thought was odd for a ECU switched relay.

I am an auto electrician BTW.
If worried about the new current difference , I managed to replace my last one that failed on a previous Subaru ,looked it up on japanparts.com think it cost me 130 bucks from Japan this was about 8 yrs ago mate but I know localy they wanted 180 + and one of my young on a roll lol Its a strange setup as you know separating the contacts so close to a working coil it seems if it was to separate spike and noise would make more sense to run 2 separate relays , but at the end of the day its how the ecu controls it.

I'm impressed you have managed to stick with the factory ecu so long with good results , Its a shame its not a simple thing to use flex fuel with the factory ecu .
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  #152  
Old 07-10-2015, 11:40 AM
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yeah. one day ill fit a new 'puter, but for now this one should get the job done.
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  #153  
Old 07-10-2015, 01:59 PM
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Ive quickly flashed in the new parameters for the 3 bar map sensor and taken it for a test drive. Took me a couple of goes to get it right. Had to adjust the multiplier and offset. And also change the low voltage CEL threshold. Seems OK. But i will get Sean to double check the values.

Car drives fine off boost. Not game to get it into positive mani pressure until its been tuned. Especially considering its got a slightly larger MAF pipe. (which i havent changed in the tune) So i have to baby it until thats sorted. The turbo wants to spool pretty early. It will be interesting to where it gets to when i can really put the boot in. But initial impression is it wont be far off where the td05 was.

Ive bedded the new brake pads in, giving them some nice gentle applications, slowly getting them hot and gradually increasing the force. They feel good so far. I can feel a bit more stopping power than the old pads. But its too hard to say this early because i havent done any 100% braking applications yet.

I tested the handbrake, this was the first time i got to actually use it since ive hooked it all in. And its not locking up the wheels. I can feel the braking force at the back. But i cannot lock the rear up even on grass or gravel. So that really sux balls. Ill need to have a play with it. Might need to mod the braket to give more leveridge on the cylinders. Or maybe get more aggressive rear pads? Pretty disapointed because Ive put so much work into making the thing.
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  #154  
Old 07-10-2015, 06:56 PM
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I am looking forward to seeing how early the bigger turbo spools given you have the bigger 3 inch compressor inlet.

Your car is an impressive read.
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  #155  
Old 07-10-2015, 10:27 PM
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I am looking forward to seeing how early the bigger turbo spools given you have the bigger 3 inch compressor inlet.

Your car is an impressive read.
took it out for a fuel up. gave it a little test up to 0.5 bar. it gets there by around the 3k mark.
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  #156  
Old 08-10-2015, 02:41 PM
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Once you get the tune into it you may be able to improve this further. But, even without this, you would have to be happy with the response.
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  #157  
Old 08-10-2015, 05:06 PM
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tune done.

But only tuned to wastegate boost uptop. Sean did not want to push it with the current ECU. He said if it was a street car he would push it a bit more but because track car he left it at min boost (1.38bar). He is worried that i will get to much IAT when racing, so has left me with a low boost tune for now. He also said my MAF pipe was running out of headroom too. He did do some 350hp runs but has pegged it back for now. He recommeneded going to an after market ECU, MAF-less fueling, and a dedicated IAT sender post intercooler. Also going bigger injectors if i really want to push it. They prefer to tune Link ECUs there and are looking into which/if one fits the Forester harness, with the electric throttle. Or i do a wire in option myself and get them to tune.

So thats the bad. Now for the good.

The car drives very nicely and pulls well. Didnt even get to give it any proper full throttle on the drive home because road laws and traffic and such. Peak power is only slightly up on the TD05 tune, but it does it at lower boost. The spool is very rapid. FASTER than the TD05, which i was not expecting. Its making good power from 3600rpm on. And has more left in it once i sort some management out. Power/boost/torque doesnt fall off like the TD05 did either. If i had of known it was this fast to spool, i probably would have gone the Dom3.

One of the dyno pulls.


New dyno graph


Old dyno graph
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  #158  
Old 08-10-2015, 05:17 PM
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It must be quite a relief and a joy to have boost coming in earlier than expected. Since it is a GTX wheel you may find that its efficiency comes into play at higher pressure ratios.

Your turbo gives me hope for mine too.

You can swap to speed density or hybrid MAF/map with romraider.
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  #159  
Old 08-10-2015, 05:35 PM
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Nice results Bram, when is the next event for the sled?
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  #160  
Old 08-10-2015, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kremer930 View Post
It must be quite a relief and a joy to have boost coming in earlier than expected. Since it is a GTX wheel you may find that its efficiency comes into play at higher pressure ratios.

Your turbo gives me hope for mine too.

You can swap to speed density or hybrid MAF/map with romraider.
Its technically not a GTX wheel. it is a custom Blouch billet wheel, it is a different shape to a GTX. Its shape is alot closer to a GT wheel, except made of a CNCd forged billet. (comparing google image searchs, no actual hard data on that statement).

If you look at a GTX wheel, it has more blades and they are all the same size, where as if you look at a Blouch wheel, it has a set of big blades, with a set if small blades between them, more closely resembling a GT wheel. So the DOM 2.5 is basically a stock location billet wheel version of the GT-3071R and NOT a stock location GTX3071R. From my limited understanding, the GTXs are better suited at high boost and maybe not quite as good at lower boost. (yes splitting hairs i know)

Ive said it before, and ill say it again. Im not going to do a hack job rom raider tune. Last time i did that my pistons turned to liquid. If it was a street car that did maybe one 3rd gear pull down a freeway onramp every once in a while, them maybe it could get you out of trouble. But given the car is aiming for race car where it will see hard use for a few laps at a time, i want reliability not cheapness, so im not doing that. I dont want to tune remote/email styles. The stock ECU isnt meant to be MAF-less, and making one might be possible, but its not what i would consider smart. The other issue is TMIC heatsoak from extended boosting. So that is where the need for a IAT post cooler comes into play.
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