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#651
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Quote:
Not Quite sure why you'd take this approach. Especially considering the ECU investment you've just made. A capable ECU and a MAC boost control solenoid is as good as it gets boost control wise. Who's tuning btw?
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605whp Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph 0-100 kph 3.2 seconds |
#652
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Its alot to do with how the turbos mounted. It is incredibly tight down there and i want the pressure lines running ontop of the headers as little as possible.
and you should know me by now. I only want one boost setting - max boost. I will be getting the same place i bought the ECU from to tune it.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#653
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#654
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What boost will you run with the new turbo ?
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#655
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1.5-1.6 bar will be it. I dont have CDB. And wouldnt want to push it any higher than that. And the 1000cc injectors will probably be running out aswell.
Although the DOM 2.5 used to boost creep as much as 1.7bar when racing (from a supposed normal wastegate actuator pressure of 1.4bar) because the internal wastegate valve was an internal wastegate valve.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#656
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The flow from the gtx30 vs dom at that boost will be huge gains...
Mine was 65hp between the 30 and td05 with 30 front ..the 2 both at 21 psi using the Perth-WRX mobile app |
#657
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Quote:
Time will tell.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#658
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Speed density tune will give good gains for sure.. will be improvements all round
using the Perth-WRX mobile app |
#659
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Fuk the GTX3076. Should have gone one of these bad boys.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#660
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Over the weekend i did a little bit more work to the Sled. ECU is now 99% wired in.
I wired in the existing fuel pump duty cycle controller to run the intank pump. I had previously bypassed it with the OEM ECU, now with the aftermarket ECU im going back to using it. It will only controll duty on the intank lift pump. I have wired a dedicated output to also switch the main pump in the surge can. Used the L/H TGV motor wiring because it goes from the ECU right next to the relay. That means i can rip out all my old patch wiring to/from my rear pump, and neatens everything up nicely. I have wired 2 bosch LSU4.9 Wideband LAMBDA sensors direct to the Link ECU. (It can run the widebands direct without any external wideband controllers.) I also wired in the 4 X ABS wheel speed sensors. Im toying with the idea of running the DCCD from within the ECU. It has built in accelerometers, plus easy access to all the inputs the DCCDpro has, plus many more. So opens up alot of options for tuning DCCD. Dont know at this stage, but i like the flexibility of it if i do. I also started wiring in a bunch of additional sensors for the ECU to monitor. Fuel pressure, oil pressure, low coolant level switch, and IAT. I was going to use my existing PLX sensors to cover those things, but apparently the ECU doesnt like sensors that run to earth like most guage sensors. So i have ordered a Honeywell stainless steel 5v 100psi pressure transducer for the fuel. And a honeywell brass 5v 10bar pressure transducer for the oil pressure. I used the TGV sensor wiring for both those sensors. Its handy because noth already have the 5v and ground wire inplace. So perfect use is a tranducer/potentiometer sensor. The IAT uses the original wires that would have been used for the OEM IAT built into the MAF. And the low coolant module uses the R/H TGV motor. I also wired the scavenge pump off the A/C wire. (This will need the A/C pressure switch linked out to work though) And im probably gonna wire the old narrow band O2 sensor heater wiring to switch the Accusump solenoid on. So all on all a very nice install using all the old useless wiring that was already inplace. I then started trying to figire out the PC-Link software to build a start up map. But alot of it isnt making sense to me just yet. Still need more time to figure it all out. And lastly, i thought id build a engine pre-oiler for first start since the engine has been sitting for so long. An old BBQ cylinder with an air pressure reg and fittings in. A large weld on fill cap to allow oil to be poured into it, and some output plumbing with a straw to siphon from the bottom, an on/off valve, and an oil pressure guage on top.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
Tags |
sled, yeti |
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