Heres the inside hardlines bent and flared. Ive followed a nice easy route from the firewall pass thru to the cylinders. A couple of P-clapms will ensure everything is held nice and secure. The 'S' bends at the cylinders allow you to adjust the length of the pipes. You can shorten or lengthen the line slightly by simply making the 'S' have smaller or larger radius bends.




This is the firewall side of the pass-thru. I forgot to paint the plate before i plumbed in the lines, so i just used some clear paint i had lying around to go over the whole lot to prevent rust etc.



Almost ready to make the connection into the system and then try and bleed the cylinders. I welded the unions to the bracket that holds the bias valve. That way, the lines wont be flapping loose and potentially braking etc.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

I plumbed the handbrake lines into the system today. I also swapped in the STi 1-1/16 bore master cylinder and matching bias valve. I did attempt to swap the brake booster in too, but getting the thing out is a prick of a job. And to be honest, i cant see it being that much different either? It did have a different part number on the sticker compared to SG forester. But looked other wise identical.

Bled the system up and i think its gonna work. Pedal feel is good, and there is no leaks. But i havent driven on it yet. Still waiting on a custom leaver for the hb cylinders. So i cant actually go and do ken block skids yet. But the hb cylinders feel nice and tight.

I used a powerful vacuum bleeder and basically pulled through the whole system from each brake caliper in order of FR RL FL RR. went through twice over, and pulled about 3 L of fluid through the system.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Here it is. Nearly all done. Literally just have to hook the handbrake warning light wire to the switch so it cuts off the DCCDpro. Russ cut me out a bespoke lever. Ive got the handle that came with the kit, but i do want something a bit more blingy. Ive put a return spring from a 5spd clutch fork/slave to keep it at rest. Although its not needed, it does make it feel a bit better. Switch is just a micro switch i had from an old project. It has NO and NC contacts so I used it in a way that when its at rest, its actually pressed. Then when you pull the lever, it allows it to go to rest. The normally closed (NC) contact will allow it to switch the right way. A bit like a brake light switch. The idea is that then it switchs as soon as the lever moves off rest, and doesnt matter how far the lever is pulled.



Even retain full use of the glove box. (because race car)

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

new air filter for when the new turbo goes on. This bad boy should help it breath.



Also bought some wheel alignment gear.

Bought a 'intercomp digital angle finder'. This neat little tool works a sh1t load better than the ebay bubble camber gauge i got. I like the ability to 'zero' the settings before measuring the camber. Because then you take into account any minor variation in the level of the ground the car is parked on.



Bought a 'Trackace laser wheel alignment kit'. This seams like a nice cheap solution to do toe adjustments. Havent used it yet, but it looks straight forward. Only downside is you cannot measure tow individually. Only as a pair. This shouldnt be a problem as long as you adjust each side equally. And also start from a known centered wheel.

The 2 alignment tools cost slightly more than one wheel alignment cost. So it makes sense to do it this way if you dont mind DIY and dont want a full spec wheel alignment from a proper aligner.



And lastly. I got a second harness. I was going to get another OMP 802. But they were out of stock on Demon Tweaks. So i got a sparco club racer. The quality between this and the OMP seams on par. The Sparco has a better designed crotch link and buckle/latch mechanism, so i put this on the drivers seat, and the OMP on the passengers. The main strap hardware buckles and adjusters etc seams identical. But the sparco has a worse setup to adjust crotch strap length. But you only do this once so no biggy. The stiching on the OMP webbing looks a bit tougher. but they both meet the same specifications, so should be only aesthetics really. Im fighting hard not to get a second sparco harness. My OCD does not like having 2 different harnesses side by side. Tge best thing about the sparco is it cost less than half (at demon tweaks) than what i paid locally for the OMP when i bought the seats.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

How do you go reaching the hyd hand brake. Seems like abit of a stretch from the pics?

Racing this weekend?

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The one perkent...

it is with in reach. my seats are fairly upright and forward and low. If it proves to be hard to grab, there is alot of adjustment available, so i can bring it more rearwards.

I really want to race this weekend. im booked in gor Pm. But im waiting for brake pads for front brakes. ordered 2 weeks ago from USA. so im hoping they are here today or tomorrow. its cutting it real close. I dont want to.miss this round because this one is set up with the hairpin straight out of the gates perfect for a handbrake skid.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Haha thought you may have been alittle excited for this one.

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The one perkent...

Nice! Do you not have any pads? Surely you can just run the old ones you have?

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Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/

yeah. ive got the originals. But they are pretty shagged. I honestly dont know if they would handle 4 runs (in dry weather).

they have only done 1/2 dozen race days and a few thousand street kms. (and of those race days. Only half actually got much use because of wet weather or fail fuel pumps etc. So i reckon each race day probably shreds a few mm off them, and they only have a few mm left till metal on metal. Not only that, they are wearing uneven. What i might do, is swap the pads around so the thick part is where the thin part was. and do a couple of runs just to test the handbrake.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

They say the material thickness should be greater than the backing plate thickness.

__________________
Huge range of extinguisher brackets for cars!

http://kap.industries/