Heres some pics of my alternator relocator bracket. It might not look like much, but this bad boy wieghs about as much as the standard cast alloy item. Haha. Base is made from 5mm steel plate. Each bolt hole that connects to the engine has a crush tube to stand it off by about 8mm. The part that holds the alternator is some 50x50x4 angle iron with some M8 crush tube welded into its 'V'. Then i used the vice to squash the angle iron inwards a bit. Then all TIG'd up.

I still have to make the belt adjuster. But i think i can mod the existing adjusted knuckle and make it suit the new location. I just need some M8 alltread as the standard bolt isnt quite long enough. And once thats done i can measure it and get a matching belt.

This is the part that sits in between the alternator main mounting legs.


Ready for blasting and paint.


Mounted to the engine.


With alternator in place.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Blouch also make turbos that are the direct replacements for the GTX30R and The GTX35R. They are exceptionally good turbos and out perform the GTX in both spool and power. If ever my GTX35R fails it will be replaced with either a Blouch Billet 35R or a Precision offering.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Thats good to know. Ive been impressed with both the Blouch billet wheel turbos ive had. I just felt i needed a smidge more than the dom2.5xtr. If i had of got the dom3xtr, i probably would have stuck with it. (But not in stock location form)

I just had a look on the Blouch site and couldnt see any of thier billet wheel turbos that directly cross to the garrett 30/35rs? Got a link?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Alternator is now relocated.

This is the adjuster i built. It works kinda like the OEM one, except it pushs the alternator up instead of pulling it up. I used a $2 150mm M8 bolt from bunnings, and welded up a lower knuckle for the bottom pivot, and made it captive on the bolt by welding a collar on. That way the bottom spins freely in the bottom knuckle and the top knuckle has the threaded adjustment. Seams to work mint. But real test will be at the track at 7k rpms.


And here it is assembled. Used a common (cheap size) belt from repco. Had to make 2 trips to get the right size. First belt i got was smaller and cost $11 more. This one must be vheaper because a common sizing? (Yes used trade pricing on both belts too so its not that.) Phitos doesnt show it, but it leaves ample space for the IC piping to come across and meet the throttle body.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Very similar to mine excpt the alt is fix mounted and i have a idler pulley in the centre pushing down on the belt to tension

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

Yeah. I did consider something like that. But i felt i could get away with the mount like how i have it. Mine is basically a homemade version of this one in the pic below. Except i have a threaded adjuster similar to stock instead of the slotted adjuster. I dont need to pull the center of the belt down for clearance or anything. My mount seems to hold it pretty steady, but it has pulled off center ever so slightly under tension. I guess the difference between my adjuster and the OEM one is that the OEM also has the cast alloy frame to steady the alt.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Very similar to mine.
I've got the Carl Davey kit from the UK.
i use a small 70 amp alternator from a Daihatsu
alternator only weights 2.5kG

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WRC is for Boys
Group B was for Men.

I did consider fitting a smaller alt. Something like a tiny 40amp denso. Im an auto electrician, and can get any alternator. But, i figure having the higher capacity is handy if i ever do night events and want to run a bunch of lights. That plus the fuel pumps could easily overwhelm a small alternator. 70amp is good size though, and would handle everything a race car would ever want to run, without being too small either.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

I had the same thought & fitted a 40amp alt originally but its wasn't enough to run the car. with my fuel pump setup i pull 32-36amp with the three pumps running. once you add the fans, windows, ignition, HID's, ECU and other electrical items it hard.. at idle i sit at 11.4V and at driving im at 13.6v which is still low, my next option is to change alternator frame size and the mount or change pulley size and spin it harder.

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WRC is for Boys
Group B was for Men.

Easy option. Set idle speed at 1500rpms. Because race car.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there