Only trying to help you out mate and save you having to redo things.

Mine worked brilliantly and made for the quickest spooling GT35R my tuner had seen at the time (6 years ago).

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Thanks. I do appreciate the input. But I think it will be ok.

The Moroso sump is a big bulky thing. And the headers do run close, but the surface thats real close to the headers is actually very small because it kinda tapers down to a point. And as siad, there will be plenty of heatsheilding over the headers. And even these pipes are 30% thicker than the ones they replace. 2mm vs 2.77mm. So i reckon it will be ok.

I took some design ques from the full race design. And they run real close to a moroso sump too.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Maybe look at the twin scroll sump. Will give you a fair bit more room.

Can't remember if you were having temp issues or not.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

The moroso sump is a "twinscrol sump". Its just it is beefed up so it can hold 5L of oil instead of the standard 3.5L or whatever that the OEM TS (half moon) sumps takes. But in order to hold 5L, i has to be a bit bigger than the OEM item.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

And i have no problems with oil temps. The oil cooler and large volume oil pan seem to keep oil temps under control even in very demanding racing.

I do how ever get rather high coolent temps during the summer race days.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

I meant the OEM twin scroll sump.
Personally I wouldn't want to run the primaries that close to the sump regardless of how much oil was in it. The temps they get up to on full WOT are ridiculous. Anyway I've said my bit good luck with it whichever route you take.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

I wouldnt swap back the OEM TS sump. They hold very little oil. Its like 3 or 3.5L. Less oil means it has to work harder. Less oil mass means it heats up faster. Gaining an extra cm or 2 clearance isnt worth the negatives.



Heat can only travel in 3 ways. Conduction, convection, radiation.

Its not touching the sump. So conduction is a non-issue.

Convection, heating the air around the headers which then heats the sump. Yeah, that will do something, and moving the headers off the sump further will reduce it. But once moving, air will be moving too. As long as the gap is sufficient that the air isnt trapped then this shouldnt be too bad.

And radiation. This is the big one. Moving the headers off the sump will reduce it. But there are other ways to reduce radiation. Things like have the external layer reflect the radiation back at the headers instead of emit it. Which is why the headers will be covered in sheet hot. The sheet hot panels reflect the radiation back to the headers. And give a second layer which is insulated from the bulk of the header heat.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

My thermo fan shroud is melted all along the bottom. My wheel arch liners (before i removed them) melted along the sides where they box in the engine bay. My engine mounts melted. My wiring harness under the raduator nearly caught fire. All this happened from running common ELH headers with only ceramic coating. I countered that by covering them with header wrap and sheet hot. Since doing that, i havent had any further issues.

All those issues are from radiation. And they werent even that close to the headers. The sheet hot fixed it. I know how well the sheet hot works at stopping radiation heat. I trust it will be fine on this application.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Wow you've had those issues and you're still willing to run bigger primaries even closer.

You're braver than I am

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Here's a good pic of how it should be done.
A build currently being done by one of the pros in the UK

Hope it helps.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds