My only thoughts are it looks too hot. The first pic shows the flange was fully coloured up and you had only done a short part. Try lower amps. However it is still a great weld!

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What tells you that its too much amps. Is that because the dull appearance? Or because of my estimation of power? As said. I dont know the actual amps used. I didnt floor the pedal. Only using 1/2 to 3/4 approx pedal. And pedal was set to max out at approx 2/3 to 3/4 of machine capacity. So im ball parking 100a. I havent adjusted the machine since last using it so i could power it up and watch the display while firing up an arc.

I have a bunch of different filler that ive been practising with. The welds shown arent actually using any filler at all, just fusion joins. But i did use some er308 on the inner edge to try and weld the inner join.

The flange is 304. And im 99% certain the tube is too. But yeah. Ive been researching the different grades of filler to suit different applications. There is a good chart on Mr TIGs website.

I have an extra flow meter and Y piece to fit my argon reg that will be used for back purging when the time comes. But there was no back purge on that weld shown. And i dont think it needed any. I dont have any photos of the inside. But there was very very little sugaring. Only a couple of tiny bubbles in a couple of places that got a bit hot. 95% of the backside of the weld was free of sugaring. Yet you could see the puddle just starting to surface. So i think that means the penertration into the tube was a good amount???

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

That heat mark your talking about was actually from welding the inside i believe. I tacked it up all around. Then i welded the inner side. Then once inside was fully complete, i started on the outside. (Theory was, practice on the inside where no one will see, so the outside looks good once ive figured it out haha) so yeah, that heat colouring i think was actually the inside welds

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Also. I value you guys opinion and advice. Im still learning and clearly have a long way to go.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

This should give me something to practice on. Bunch of 304 schedule 10 1.5" buttweld fittings. And a length each of 304 3" and 1.75" 1.6mm tubing. Cant believe how cheap stainless steel is at wholesale pricing.

Also picked up a 12" cold cut / tungsten carbide tipped drop saw on a good special at toolmart.

Thinking of using the buttweld to convert a normal set of headers into a bumper mount. And using the tubing to complete the exhaust plumbing ny way of pie cut bends. (Hence the cold cut saw instead of abrasive saw. (TCT bladed saw will make me happy if i have to do 100+ cuts and then NOT have to de-bur them aswell etc)




Had to cut the lengths up to fit into the ute haha.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Sorry for getting Technical - Russ could be right, It looks too hot,cooking the parent material will impact the grain structure potentially causing cracks in the (HAZ) heat affected zones (the edge of the weld bead). I know its probably only a grade 304 SS but heat inputs are still critical in the prevention of cracking in the HAZ. Glad you giving it a fair crack Bram!

Thanks for the input guys. Will try and work on my over eager pedal foot.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Definitely helps buying steel using company accounts etc. I buy all my stainless through Stirling's in Bibra Lake. The price is ludicrously cheap due to the volume of purchasing we do off them.

Really keen to see your results with lower amps. You're doing good welds so keep at it. Got a few of the coded welders in and out most the day so will grab one of them and show them your posts/pics and report back to you with any advice.

Yeah. Stirlings is where i went. They are just around corner from me.

Cool. Just dont let them critique me too hard. I have feelings.

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More pics. 8-)

Man i love the Matt Blue Gunmetal rims. Wipe down with a microfiber after cleaning and it looks amazing.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there