Surely you are capable of undoing a couple of bolts, just go & get the straps, it's not rocket science, you're willing to probably pay ASG $100 for something you can do in 5min today for a quarter the price which "may" cure your problem instantly & should be done whether you think you need them or not.

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Beaten up old 98 Gen 2 Liberty, 13.0, stock V3 STI running gear.
07 Transit motor home
69 VF & 70 VG Valiants needing full restoration
Yamaha Zooma 50cc rocket hopefully going with the Transit.

Yeah i know mate, i am just lazy .. will have a look tomorrow.

My problem is exactly the same as what happens to this Skyline:

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=S-HNkHM42SU

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Should have bought an STI

you could try taking the coilpacks off and give them a good clean with silicon spray, if they're dirty they could be arcing to the head and giving poor spark, i know thats a common issue with the coil-on-plugs on rb & sr motors

the coil packs discharge to earth (the engine block)....Do the earthing first, your issue may dissappear for a $10 diy fix.

In my experience coils packs that are on their way out play up once heat soaked (i.e driven 30 minutes, stopped for 15, issue occurs upon running again).

Does this sound like what you're experiencing?

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Yeah pretty much Ross. I take it the coil packs aren't sensored and don't cause a CEL too?

Gonna go do the earthing today.

Also, remember ages ago how i said i had an issue with the ignition barrel .. Sometimes the car just doesn't start when the key is at the full "start" position. Giving the ignition barrel/steering column a bump while holding the key on the full start position will make it start.

Doesn't happen very often, but i am aware of something weird happening inside there. Do you think this could be a possible cause too?

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Should have bought an STI

The ECU only switches your coil packs. However I'm pretty sure the positive side of all your coil packs is supplied from your ignition barrel and then earthed to the engine.

Cheers for that, another avenue to inspect.

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Should have bought an STI

Pulled off the ignition cover a moment ago an inspected. Everything looks pretty good and tidy in there. Blew out a bit of dust though.

Checked out the rear side of the ignition barrel and i think there were 5 big wires soldered onto it, connections looked good.

Noticed that there is a tiny little metal switch right where the key goes into the slot. This must be the key sensor, as soon as the key touches it, the flashing red key goes out on the cluster. You can hear it clicking if you do it gently.

Shook the key around a little bit and went for a drive while messing with it and the position of the steering column and no red flashing keys, So the key sensor is alright.

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Should have bought an STI

Got a Scangauge2 connected tonight, saw two codes immediately.

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0102 - Mass air flow sensor circuit low input

From what i've read both of the above codes are generated from the AFM! Gonna clear the codes and see if they come back, if so swap the AFM again and monitor.

It's wierd though as the problem remained with the different AFM.

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Should have bought an STI

Out of interest, how's your water spray rigged up?
It is manual or auto?
If its auto, has a hobbs switch?
Where is the hobbs tee-ed from?

Disconnect the water spray, earth and power
Run without it for a few days
Potential here is maybe the water is getting to the AFM circuit. Long shot, but worth a try

Also, are you running a oil catch can?
Another long shot, but sometimes you can get oil in the intake to the turbo. And the oil usually in mist form, can potentially play havoc on the AFM. Again you might clean it and its back to the same problem again
I'd stick your finger in the silicon pipe and see if it has any oily residue