About 50km - I had the guys put them in (yes they are in the right way around) - probably did the standard bed in procedure. Did a few more hard stops lastnight on the way home .. think they might be getting a bit better, still noisey but. Will do another 100km on them and see how things go.

I agree with the new disc/old pad vice versa procedure. Might just take longer for the new pads and rotors to 'mate'.

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Should have bought an STI

Getting some proper heat into the pads and rotors will help dramatically. In comparison they tend not to bite as hard around town.

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MY00 WRX. 89 Prelude. 99 CRV

I'm impressed with my A1RMs, for the price they really do exceed my expectations. Fitted mine with some lightly used DBA4000 up front and existing stock rotors up back, and after about 200km of 'normal' driving, they held up very well on the track (Collie). Car pulls up hard! I now think I need more power to compensate for the braking ability!

At the track they got a bit dusty and a bit noisy, but function over form I say!

Top product Greg, thanks again.

Pads are all good now - Just needed a few days of driving to bed in - and they are now feeling very nice. Noise has just about gone and have mated with the new rotors.

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Should have bought an STI

Mine squeal a little bit in the rears under low pressure braking.

I don't, it's the biggest mistake you can make, PARTICULARLY with the A1RM, and indeed most modern pads. The biggest issue with have with the A1RM is when it's put onto a rotor that had a high organic type pad on it previously, something like TRW.

Modern pads, particularly since they banned asbestos, are VERY reliant on having their own material on the rotor to work properly! The A1RM is probably the biggest example of this. Something like a Remsa isn't so bad with it...

NEVER bed in new rotor with old pads, unless the next set of pads you plan to use are exactly the same! New or machined rotors, on new pads is the ideal! If you're replacing a set of pads with the same compound, then you're fine, but if you're switching between brand or compounds, give the pad a chance to transfer and interact with it's own material! Otherwise you can have massive compatibility issues, and TRW->A1RM is probably the one we're most conscious of now, and anytime we get feedback that isn't consistent with our expectations of a pad, we ask what condition the rotor was in prior to it being fitted.

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- GSL RallySport - 1300 884 836 -www.gslrallysport.com -

On the case of pads making noise, 50km is no where near long enough for the pads to face up properly to the rotor, and in opposed pistons calipers this is absolutely critical! Give them time to settle in, or run a reuseable multi layer shim, like the Project Mu ones.

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- GSL RallySport - 1300 884 836 -www.gslrallysport.com -

My A1RM's on the rear made a bit of noise so i made some shims up and then about 100km's after that the squealing went away. Been good as gold since then

Might be a stupid question but I guess you can swap between the HPX and the A1RM pads without worrying about anything???

Correct, we don't generally have too much of an issue going between HPX and A1RM, as the foundation of their respective compounds aren't dramatically different.

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- GSL RallySport - 1300 884 836 -www.gslrallysport.com -