Also Darren, i think that ultrex is gonna be my choice for the brace, but still not sure with strut brace as i want one that could fit around a future PW TMIC....

Same here with the fitting it around a future pw tmic

buy stuff online.
go a thicker rear.

24mm front and 22mm rear would be over steer inductive wouldn't it?

my understanding is that the thicker the bar = less roll and less roll = more tire on the road = better holding. So the 22mm rears would give out first, hence oversteer.

id do a H brace as well that was a great mod for me.

I understood it the other way around, a rear sway bar for some reason makes the front behave itself..? and vice versa. Thats why most put a thicker on the rear so the front has better grip and leaves a tendancy to oversteer.

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Twin scroll Pig Bi-Squeeling

depends on different cars. but in terms of the gc8.

bigger front swaybar / smaller rear swaybar = understeer (stock setup is like this)

bigger rear swaybar / smaller front swaybar = oversteer

Depends how much $$ you want to spend. On my old gc8 I had f + r sway bars, alk, whiteline low springs (not super low) and the camber bolts in the front. That went very well as was quite competitive in club motorsport.

On my current GC8 i pretty much ticked every box in the whiteline catalogue. f + r sway bar, alk, group 4 coilovers with race stiff springs, h brace, roll centre kit, solid links for the rear sway bar, adjustable strut tops, camber bolts. Car goes mint but is horrible on the road. Being an STI it already had the strut top brace. I did not worry about the rear strut brace because the thing has a full cage. Turns very well now though.

I suggest go for what I did on my first GC8. Cost you less than $1000 and give you some idea of what is possible. Certainly heaps better than stock and not too comprimised.

Brendon

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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing....

Go a bigger rear sway or same size as the front (i.e. 22mm f / 22-24mm r). The big front sway bar stuff comes from the Americans with their AutoX rules. A larger front swaybar doesn't mean that you understeer more, but a lot of people feel that since when you finally break traction you are travelling much faster than if you had a stock swaybar in.

Go for quality braces (i.e. Cusco > Whiteline > No name ebay special). A 22mm Cusco sway is far better than a 24mm Whiteline due to the construction (imo anyway).

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Mate,

have a google seach of "rex on rails" --- its on the whiteline website as PDF copies. Its info on suspension mods for a 94 wrx using whiteline gear, its an interesting read.

but my suggestion in order of which you should do first is ( i have it on my GC8 )

24mm rear sway with HD links
ALK
camber bolts on front.
22mm front sway

and also pay for a wheel alignment after the mods (toe and camber alignment)

im also running lowered (not superlow) kingsprings with Koni struts. i scrape on large speed bumps, so dont go superlows!

goodluck with the mods.

Steve.

unless your car is on the deck, a roll centre kit is money better spent elsewhere. but if you have everything else then why not

A good quality set of swaybars and decent coilovers or struts / springs are the best place to start, plus the anti-lift kit

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MY93 Impreza GX 1.8L, 0hp, 0nm

good advice so far

my understanding was that if you put too thick a sway bar on, it will make the car too rigid, and the car would actually have less handling - i think some body roll is sometimes necessary, think of a car without suspension vs a car with suspension.

in regards to what steve said, i have had a good look through the whiteline website, downloaded myself a heap of reading to do :P
noticed some 'papers' on the site refering to limits of stiffness etc... i've forgotten most of my physics from school, so it'll take a while for me to make heads or tails of it

are there any online vendors that do cusco stuff? so far i've been using tuspeed and a bit of ebay to get an idea of prices and what's out there...