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#51
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manifold pressure can be used as load, but its not the correct way to do it as it doesnt take into account any atmospheric variables (altitude, low pressure storms etc)
"load" (ignition tables) and "efficiency" (fuel tables) should be calculated as manifold pressure / atmosphere pressure % or ((map/bap)*100)
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Long live the WRC |
#52
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Yeah I agree absolute pressure (MAP) is the way to go, as you don't have to run as much atmospheric pressure compensation, if any.
So after all that it sounds like the map that came with the car was only tuned to 1.2 bar (220 kPa). Hopefully the current map extends up past 300 kPa if 2 bar was reached for a few seconds.
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GOLD PIG STI |
#53
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Howdy everyone, I'm back early as you may have figured out and ready to get this show on the road and the car back and driving again.
I read through the discussion about the MAP settings etc and I can confirm that the Eff and Load Calc Methods are set to 4 (MAP) which I would imagine to be fine as I can't really see the need for any atmospheric pressure compensation seeing as there is nowhere around here that would be high (or low) enough for changes in altitude to make any significant effect on things (or am I overlooking something here?). So to make sure I am clear on this, my readings from my MAP sensor (and Defi gauge) when the engine is not running (which I'd assume to be atmospheric pressure) read just over the 100kpa mark. As for the engine, apart from getting the block and head surfaces machined and everything crack tested, is there anything else that can/should be done while everything is apart? Would a port & polish make much of an improvement to performance or doesn't that really apply in the Subaru world like it does to big V8's?
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#55
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Have you gotten the heads off yet? Hope you didnt do what Tino did and peel the sleeve from the casing.
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#56
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You have cosworth heads right? They are already CNC ported and it would be a shame to mess with them.
Yep if you’re using option 4(MAP), when the engine is off, the manifold is at atmospheric pressure and the MAP sensor reads about 101 kPa. When the car is idling the manifold is in vacuum and would read around 30 kPa. When you’re making 1.5 bar of boost (150 kPa) the MAP would read about 251 kPa (101 + 150).
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#57
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Quote:
Don't touch them, they're already ported! |
#58
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Quote:
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Roger that. So it's just machining the heads & block, crack test everything (x-ray or whatever) and get new head studs for good measure. Oh yeah and a new head gasket would probably help things too
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Remove hail dents yourself, fast and easy - $25 for a kit. PM me for details [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#59
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Quote:
You may want to go with a thicker head gasket depending on how much is taken off the heads and block to keep your compression ratio from increasing. Also the current "ultra high performance cosworth head studs" have a 260,000 psi tensile strength and have superseded the previous cosworth studs, which had a 200,000 psi tensile strength. So replacing the head studs would be an upgrade.
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Tags |
diagnosis, diy tuning with nos = fkn bang!, engine, i'm not a coward - i just cbf'd helping, people who add tags instead of posting are cowards, rebuild, too much money |
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