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  #1  
Old 08-10-2011, 08:34 AM
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Default Problem with Steering & boost settings

Ok, did the search thing and can't find what I need. It might exist, but I am more familiar with cookbooks than motoring talk.

FIRST PROBLEM -
My car (details below sorry if I repeated anything or mentioned anything not required to be known) is shuddering when turning (left or right) at low speed/revs - ie parking, slow corners. It happens both on full lock and half lock. Cornering at speed - it does not happen (or maybe it just isn't noticable).

New tyres and rims fitted in July. No problem up until 2 weeks ago.

Thinking it might be as simple as power steering fluid top up. But would like feedback on other things to look for so I don't get fed bullshit if I take it somewhere.

Was serviced by MMS in July 2011 too.

Car:
03 WRX, 2ltr, Auto
4EAT
STI Short Block
Forged Pistons & Rods
VF34 Turbo
3” Stainless Steel Exhaust
Perrin Fuel Rails
EJ207 Heads & Intake
STI Intercooler
Motec M800
STI Sway Bars & Linkages & Strut Brace
Anti Lift Kit
Tein Fully Adjustable Coilovers
Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted
Defilink Guages
ROH Boost R Wheels
Yokahama S Drive 17x225 tyres


SECOND PROBLEM -
STiNC needed to use my battery so disconnected it, now boost settings & change points have reset (to crapola), anyone SOR with laptop/software/know how to help. Beers on offer. Don't want to have to take them to be reset again - this happened when I had to get a new battery back in Feb 11.


Really appreciate any help that can be given.

Last edited by Shez; 08-10-2011 at 10:07 AM. Reason: specifying car is auto
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:46 AM
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1. Sure that with the build no one put a plated diff in the rear of the car?

2. What is controlling the boost? The motec shouldn't lose settings when the power is disconnected.
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kato View Post
1. Sure that with the build no one put a plated diff in the rear of the car?

2. What is controlling the boost? The motec shouldn't lose settings when the power is disconnected.
1. had the car for a year, mods were done in 2007, haven't noticed this issue before. But will have Linc have a look when he hoists it after work today.

2. I have no idea what controls boost. All I know is that when I had the battery replaced, it changed all the settings where it was hitting boost limit earlier than previously. Took it to Tim @ Sikem and he said there wasn't a problem, just need to tweek the boost to a slightly high limit. It appears that the car is holding boost in 2nd & 3rd (auto car) for longer than it feels it needs to, like maybe 2-3 seconds before the big jolt of boost.

All work for the mods was done by West Racing Motor Development. Service history says services done at RMS, Sikem & MMS - but that is probably superfluous information.

Christ I hope you can understand my femalespeak.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:01 AM
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Problem 1: shuddering on tight turns, first thing to try is an auto trans flush, after the flush refill the box with DEXRON 3, then add a friction modifier. it sound like the transfer clutch is sticking/binding. If that doesn't work, you may need the clutch replaced.
Are your tyres the same size front and rear? They must be or this tight corner braking will occur.

Need more info on boost control.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:06 AM
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Yep tyres same size.

Not familiar with "clutch" stuff, will pass onto Linc, he might understand. I have an auto, and had no idea I had a clutch.
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:08 AM
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Above post sounds sarcastic - it isn't - it is pure ignorance on my part!
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:09 AM
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this sounds like REXILLA's (bens) old car?

i cant think of many auto blue wrx's with an m800 fitted.

re boost settings, i'd suggest its more likley something loose or disconnected.
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:30 AM
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I will get her (the car) up on stands when I get home and check all electrical connections and steering linkages etc. Not sure how the auto actually works in terms of shift points, whether it is set by the rpm or what. When Sik ems wound the boost up to about 20 psi it changed alot better. Last time MMS serviced it after the last battery change they did something different again. Now as Shez says the change from 2nd to 3rd is changing lower and holding rpm for ages..... when it does change up there is an awesome kick (reminds me of an old shift kitted C4 I had in a clevo)
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:32 AM
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definately going to be a vacuum hose disconnected somewhere i imagine.
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Old 08-10-2011, 04:19 PM
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Thank you everyone !! Appreciate the advice considerably. Guess I wont be driving tomorrow, too much embarassment

But on the bright side, the CS4 will do just nicely
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