Car bouncing - Page 2 - Perth-WRX.com

Andy! · #11 20-12-2013, 09:04 AM

dachopper is yours the blue gc8 with the big black lip?
I do remember seeing a gc8 getting far too much wheel spin and bouncing off after the first corner.

It may be you are too agressive being smoother will likely help

drewgong · #12 20-12-2013, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XT43

LOL dipshit, if your grade 2 level of education enabled you to read properly you'd understand that he was riding the clutch in order to try and stop the bouncing when exiting the corner.
If Dachopper wants, seeing as he just lives down the road from me, I'd be more than happy to take his car through my Oconnor special stage where I scrub my rcomps in and bed in my brakes.
As for you, go have another bong and do some more sick cunt helis in the gravel and hi 5 yourself for being a retard.

no worries cheese dick, im pretty sure hes riding the clutch to initiate a slide in the corner not to fix the bouncing. and why did i never think of a special stage to bed my brakes? thats a waaay better idea than 60 k stops on a quiet street. now im off to inject more heroin into my eyeballs

XT43 · #13 20-12-2013, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewgong

no worries cheese dick, im pretty sure hes riding the clutch to initiate a slide in the corner not to fix the bouncing. and why did i never think of a special stage to bed my brakes? thats a waaay better idea than 60 k stops on a quiet street. now im off to inject more heroin into my eyeballs

What does riding the clutch mean? - Yahoo Answers

Clutch Kick Drifting Technique

You stupid fuck

Strubaru · #14 20-12-2013, 09:52 AM

stiffer isn't always better for handling, lifting wheels n shit, invest in plated diffs for more slideways action

and burke NSS > OSS

XT43 · #15 20-12-2013, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewgong

and why did i never think of a special stage to bed my brakes? thats a waaay better idea than 60 k stops on a quiet street. now im off to inject more heroin into my eyeballs

and fucktard, as written on the piece of paper ( some big words with a small font so probably may as well be written in hebrew for you )
Straight from the Hawk website

Quote:

What is the proper procedure for braking in new brake pads?
Brake pad break-in procedure.

After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
Important reminders:

Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down.

I even highlighted the bit as why I head off into an industrial area to do it.

Thanks for coming pole smoker.

drewgong · #16 20-12-2013, 10:33 AM

hahah someones having a great day! or is it just the roids talking? i still think he meant what i say

drewgong · #17 20-12-2013, 10:37 AM

lol, reading the instructions to bed your brakes! champ.. hawk smork dork. and by the way, i was commenting on topic. where are you heading with all this?

XT43 · #18 20-12-2013, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewgong

hahah someones having a great day! or is it just the roids talking? i still think he meant what i say

Roids and Christmas.

dachopper · #19 20-12-2013, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jezza

What tyre pressures?

38 psi new kumo 36's, I'm not familiar with the sidewall strength of these tyres, I came off Dunlop DT03's

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick73

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/general-...ring-dccd.html

Sound familiar?

Besides the 400hp....

Nope, it's nothing like that - The diff is a plated rear R180, and front helical torsean diff. I've done a crapload other mods to the suspension over the last 10 years to get it where it is today. just googled the ku36 and I'm in the ballpark with pressures for them. The only other thing I can think of, is that I removed my front strutt brace to fit the TMIC, on the edge of grip, the towers might be flexing in and out slightly............... or the car is sitting on the springs ( damper not high enough ) ........ or the sidewalls flexing...........Or because of the setup when one wheel starts spinning there is some king of shock loading that goes from the front to the rear end. I wouldn't notice this with less grip - it's being caused by the grip level.......or power delivery issue????...... I should have put a camera out side the car, that would at least let me see if it's an up and down or a left and right, or a front then back issue ! ( not sure how to fix the front / back but that's my gut feeling )

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewgong

mine has started doing this since changing springs.. front end was awesomely planted before with 22 sways and antilift kit. these "sports springs" have stance but the standard ones held road waaay better and have more tavel for potholes and what not.. yuk yuk yuk.. does the front end bounce/chirp inside wheel and wants to understeer more than usual.. i had it balanced out soooo good too! ive stewed over this and come up to my own conclusion that maybe lowering the centre of gravity has changed how the weight of the chassis is distributed to the individual wheels and the stiffer sways give it less ability to lean meaning that the weight transers lower in a more sideways fashion across the centre of the wheel instead of leaning down onto it therefore breaking the grip easier, pushing it across and the bouncing is the continual loading/unloading of the wheel as it breaks and gains traction. i think randomly interchanging suspension parts will most likely wreck the handling unless the mods are planned with prior experience in how different combinations perform. aaannd welcome! enjoy your grenade!

Yeah - your describing what's happening ( except the turn in and mid corner is great with mine ) , it's only on the edge of grip due turn and medium / getting on the power, and seems to only be on slow speed 2nd gear or less corner exits. ( first gear in my car is a waste of time ) 3rd gear same corner doesn't have the same pull as second so I can generally plant it in 3rd and by the time the boost / power/ rpm builds Im allready straightening out and through the corner - although there is a second or two where I'm wanting more power hence I tried second and got the bounce.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy!

dachopper is yours the blue gc8 with the big black lip?
I do remember seeing a gc8 getting far too much wheel spin and bouncing off after the first corner.

It may be you are too aggressive being smoother will likely help

Yeah that was mine, I was starting to get some of this happening under partial throttle - as the car comes on boost, as I'm trying to be smooth. I thought when it was happening - it was so violent that it may have been causing my throttle foot to oscillate on and off the gas slightly making it worse, hence I changed to planting my foot in it to try to eliminate if my leg was making a small issue worse. Problem still seamed to be there, I rode the clutch to try and eliminate the possibility of it being caused by power delivery - it resulted in a power drift with no bouncing, but I'm still not 100% sure this was the problem.

The car felt really nice and neutral in the medium speed right hander , i think the right rear / inside right were almost / or off the ground, but it's able to give either under or power oversteer - but the power oversteer has bounce once the rear end steps out a little driving though the bounce is quite tricky ?

drewgong · #20 20-12-2013, 12:02 PM

my problem started with the springs and i think could be fixed by changing them, if you have adjustables then you should be able to tune it out. someone one here might have some info on a decent setup for you. there is some pretty informative people on here

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drewgong (20-12-2013)