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  #21  
Old 20-12-2013, 12:55 PM
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Fit a roll-centre kit. They are dubbed as being a must-have mod for lowered cars being used on the track.


My other part of advice is for your 'slides'. Once the car starts to slide, don't mess around with the clutch or whatever. Either hold the accelerator or punch it. As soon as you back off you will unsettle the car.

One last thing - check the tyres and suspension. They may be rubbing under heavy cornering. I noticed a similar jumping as you describe when mine was rubbing.
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  #22  
Old 20-12-2013, 02:14 PM
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38psi? Too much for track.

Stop riding the clutch.

LOL at 290kw from a vf28.
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  #23  
Old 20-12-2013, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
Fit a roll-centre kit. They are dubbed as being a must-have mod for lowered cars being used on the track.

Power reading is from the G-meter and car weight. It never lies

My other part of advice is for your 'slides'. Once the car starts to slide, don't mess around with the clutch or whatever. Either hold the accelerator or punch it. As soon as you back off you will unsettle the car.

One last thing - check the tyres and suspension. They may be rubbing under heavy cornering. I noticed a similar jumping as you describe when mine was rubbing.
I have the Roll center kit, Spec C Lower control arms, lower control arm mod, 6-7 degree + caster plates, race engine mounts, eccentric bolts, race suspension bushing set, 22mm sway bars, upgraded tie rod ends, upgraded drive shafts ( 10mm & 15mm extra track than normal ) and 10kg springs independant coil / rebound adjustment. I don't think anything I can bolt on is going to fix the issue.

I've done a lot of driving.... a LOT, I no that if I pedal around a corner and put 20% throttle on before the apex this isn't a problem and I can drive miss daisy out. I want the car to have a smooth break away - once I have figured out why the car ( not me ) is doing what it is doing - I can change something the fix it.

The jerk is so violent it is hard to hold the accelerator in a constant position other than fully planted - even that required concentration. I did drive out of all of the jerkiness once the wheels stopped spinning / jerking. All the clutch did was give me a much more powerfull slide way past the grip level of the tyre but it was smooth as soon as the clutch was released once the wheels were spinning until grip kicked in.

I've never felt it before in another car.
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Last edited by dachopper; 20-12-2013 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 20-12-2013, 04:06 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWHAvXGQ4iU\
That's not my car, but that's what i expect when powering out of a corner, Im getting that with the car jumping / bumping up and down

this guy the same - however they both have understeer issues

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dx8ALmitDs
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Last edited by dachopper; 20-12-2013 at 04:09 PM.
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  #25  
Old 20-12-2013, 04:10 PM
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Is the dccd open or locked or auto when you are attempting this 'drift' manoeuvre?
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  #26  
Old 20-12-2013, 04:20 PM
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Who set up your suspension?
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Old 20-12-2013, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
Is the dccd open or locked or auto when you are attempting this 'drift' manoeuvre?
Auto open, Auto 1/2 locked, makes no difference
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Old 20-12-2013, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco View Post
Who set up your suspension?
I did.
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  #29  
Old 20-12-2013, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dachopper View Post
Auto open, Auto 1/2 locked, makes no difference
Because on auto, it will lock as soon as you apply throttle or brake. Throwing it into a corner like that is locking your dccd.

I found manual full open is best for slides.

The auto is not suitable for tight corners where you want to encourage loss of traction.

The other option is to leave on auto full lock, then select your gear, turn in, moderate throttle, pull your handbrake to bring out the back, release and maintain throttle

Last edited by Jezza; 20-12-2013 at 05:52 PM.
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  #30  
Old 20-12-2013, 05:55 PM
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Just yank the handbrake mid corner - that'll stop the bouncing...
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