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  #31  
Old 20-12-2013, 06:29 PM
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This I why I run non dccd box with a 2 way plated rear diff no electronic magic needed, just the right foot and some balls.
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  #32  
Old 20-12-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
Because on auto, it will lock as soon as you apply throttle or brake. Throwing it into a corner like that is locking your dccd.

I found manual full open is best for slides.

The auto is not suitable for tight corners where you want to encourage loss of traction.

The other option is to leave on auto full lock, then select your gear, turn in, moderate throttle, pull your handbrake to bring out the back, release and maintain throttle
This is straight from the DCCDpro manual
"Fully CCW turns the unit essentially “off” which will heavily bias the rear wheels"

there is no lock at all in auto mode with the dial turned left. I can verify this because in that mode, the lock indicator stays completely in the open position, but I still get the bounce happening. The back end flings out easy enough, but with the crazy jerking / bouncing at the same time
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  #33  
Old 20-12-2013, 07:22 PM
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That's it I'm going back the track,

anyone interested in this session

Saturday 28th December: 3:30PM & 6:30PM
?
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  #34  
Old 20-12-2013, 07:27 PM
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Depending on dollars I may be keen
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Old 20-12-2013, 08:08 PM
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it's only 80
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Old 20-12-2013, 08:42 PM
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For 80 yeah sure
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Old 20-12-2013, 10:43 PM
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If I haven't messed up on my firmware update on my ecu I am in...
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  #38  
Old 21-12-2013, 08:10 AM
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If you have the issue like the above video try going with a reasonable ride height so the suspension can actually work. Or you can stay fully hektic low and deal with it.

You say that you have heaps of experience driving etc but driving through a bit of bounce is hardly a big deal and would be fairly easy to tune out


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Old 21-12-2013, 10:36 AM
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Tuning Sessions | MC Motorsport

cant book til monday morning, Il try the 3pm session
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Old 21-12-2013, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scary View Post
If you have the issue like the above video try going with a reasonable ride height so the suspension can actually work. Or you can stay fully hektic low and deal with it.

You say that you have heaps of experience driving etc but driving through a bit of bounce is hardly a big deal and would be fairly easy to tune out


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The ride height is normal 332 / ish, it's not slammed, so what's your advice to tune it out?
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