sorry meant to say it was my opinion as ive test drove 3 and they were so hard to drive. Hard to find one in stock form.

On top of your engine rebuild (which I assume is fully forged):
- keep current turbo and save heaps $$
OR
- twin scroll for quick get up and go (lose boxer rumble also) + new headers/dump pipe
OR
- single scroll for better top end (would recommend ELH but again lose rumble) + new headers
- Flex fuel system install (+injectors) + good tune
- HD clutch
- head service (valves, porting? etc..)
- full oem or quality aftermarket pump, gasket and belt replacement

There may be other supporting mods I've forgotten, depends on what your budget will allow.

I'd also suggest suspension adjustments after the car is back together.

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Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

hey mate, my driveway thread is here. mine only has light mods but has a JDM ej207 in it.

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/your-dri...8-got-bug.html

I actually blew my engine a couple of months ago and was in a similar situation to you. I however had a limited budget so I purchased a JDM EJ207 long motor and installed it myself. This was the cheapest option for me, I was looking at $5k for a rebuild (perth prices must be higher). I had the option at the time of grabbing the twin scroll turbo (VF37) and exhaust manifold with the motor (standard JDM hardware for this MY) but I had to pass as it would have cost an extra $2k or so. So i reused by VF35.


FYI Twin scroll basically means it starts building boost much much lower in the rev range due to the design, so the power tap turns 'on' a lot earlier. Have a google and maybe watch some youtube videos on it. The reason I suggested it is because you mentioned the 207 not being powerful off boost which I find the case as well. HTH.

Thanks mate.

Yeah im getting a good deal with this rebuild.

Can i also just confirm that all my02 stis already come with fully forged pistons?

didnt all AUDM my02 sti engines already come fully forged from factory?

My understanding is that the sti motor ie EJ207 has forged pistons only from factory.


using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

ah ok - just forged pistons.

Can anyone else confirm this?

Because the workshop is asking me if i would like forged pistons... which bumps up the price to 7.5k. I guess its forged a lot of things - not just the pistons. He said it is cheap and usually will cost 10k+

Why did the original motor die? bearings or something else?

Whilst the motor is out do a the cams - the heads should be reconditioned whilst they are off anyway so adding cams isn't a huge additional expense labour-wise.

265's or 272's are the go and will really wake things up in you motors midrange power & also extend the power longer in the higher rpm range (i.e after 6k rpm). cams will cost you $1-1.5K depending on brand and grind.

After market forged piston like JE or Wiseco can be had for under $500 these days - they are a lot stronger than the factory ej207 forgies.

Take a look at Real street performance in the US they do some epic deals on engine internals and ship here in under a week.

Add a decent oil pump to your build list too - at $160 it's cheap insurance.

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Buy an ej207 factory bottom end. Forged guts. $3000 plus labour.
Sell your cases.
Strap a garret gt35 to it and make GTR chasing power after 4500 rpm.
OR.
buy ej257 bottom end for nice low to midrange torque for a brilliant streeter if you're not interested in working fuck out of it.
You can't have both with a 2 litre 4.

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Balls.

Sorry, if you're not familiar with model numbers, the 207 is a forged, strengthened block 2 litre.
257 is the 2.5 litre. Not as strong, but a reliable 300hp with good low-mid range.

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Balls.