The mechanical/plumbing side of things is finally done. I had a few tense moments drilling next the brake lines. I had to pull it back with one finger while drilling slowly with the other hand.



Picture is blurry but you can see how close the tanks sits to the brake line above it, about 3-4mm clearance.



Before.



And after.



I would have been finished a lot sooner if I had plumbed it according to the Process West install guide, which is very straight forward. Because I am using the Turbosmart reg I had to make some shit up and buy some more nipples. Bought some Bunnings spec angle brackets to hold clamp it in place.

Pretty happy with how it has turned out, it's the first time I have ever attempted anything like it.

Start the wiring tomorrow, ugh.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Sweet.

I put my surge tank down in a very similar location.

How long till launch?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

If I can get the wiring completed over the weekend I should be able to get the engine done during the week or early next week.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Great, no earthing strap(pump negative) supplied with the wiring.

Is this something I can go and buy locally tomorrow? Or safer to get one sent from supplier over east?

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Nick get an off cut of the fuel line say 100mm long and cut it down its length to split it open. Then wrap it around the brake line. Zip tie it in place to protect the brake line

The wiring loom should have a earth strap with an eyelet on it ?

Or do you mean the earth from the pump to the body ?
You would need a 3 to 4 mm black cable say 300mm long and two suitable eyelets on each end.

interested if you have awaken the fuel stubble issues going forward

3mm auto cable is gonna be too thin. 3mm auto is only good for 10a continuous. Even 4mm auto is less than ideal. Its typically rated at 15a continuous. Larger fuel pumps usually pull about 15a and upwards. The walbro 450lph e85 pump for example (which i presume is inside this tank) pulls over 15a at 3bar at 13.5v. And it goes up from there as rail pressure increases. I'd recommend atleast a 6mm auto or 12awg /12bs size.

Although im thinking with the PW surge tank, the negative side of the pump is connected to the tank internally and could therefor earth via the mounting hardware if the bolt holes and such have a clean connection. Id suggest PW only use the additional earth cable as the crossmember / chassis mounting surfaces are painted and may not provide a clean earth. So an additional earth link is used to ensure good connection.

On my fuel pump wiring i use 8bs for all the power/earth cables.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Thank you Bram & Neil(seagull). My local mechanic/auto sparkie is making a cable up for me. Will be picking it up in a couple of hours.

Mindarie Mobile Mechanics - fucking legends.

8b&s Bram as you suggested. He said for a big pump like the 460 he wouldn't use anything smaller.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

I spoke with Jamie at Tokyo's before plumbing it all up. He said it's exactly how he normally sets up aftermarket fuel systems on my model.

Ditch the factory inlet & outlet dampers & the bypass/crossover line. Plumb it as straight in & out system to the reg and back to the surge tank.

Time will tell.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Yeah. 8bs is a good size for longer runs to fuel pumps. And even up to 6bs if running multiple laege pumps. With low voltage DC wiring, you have to consider volt drop aswell as current carrying capacity. 12awg would handle the current all day long, but 12awg on a longer cable run and you will be introducing a measureable amount of volt drop. Lower voltage (from volt drop) reduces the performance of the pump. A pump that us running at say 12-13v will pump less volume than the same pump pumping at 14.4v.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there