Spewin Poof! Shouldnt have gotten such wide rims with that offset if you wanted to track it.

spot on!!

my evo has made 560hp atw and 2300+ tractive effort torque, driven the car almost every day since its been fitted and couldn't be happier

its the factory pull setup too

triple carbon's are fragile and plates can explode if shock loaded and will expose other weaknesses in the rest of the driveline ie driveshafts. catch 22

Nah Russ its because the car is too low... Ive raised it up a little now and see how it goes. But should be alright. Remeber im running 245 rcomps which are a big tyre under the standard gaurds (was wanting 235 but cant be choosey)..

Im making 711 nm atw (hub) not sure what that is in terms of tract effort torque.

waht diamater are the tripple plates???

The clutch is rated to 800 or so nm atw roughly was the estimate that we worked out..

This is with a 225mm clutch diamter.



I went and saw the clutch guy yesterday and he thinks that the hydrolic release bearing is holding onto the plate causing it to slip. I went to dougs today to see if we can move the spacer but the gearbox needs to come out in order for the adjustment to be done..

So its not because the clutch cant hold it its because theres an adjustment issue.

Ive had many long discussions with Jim Berry before i decided to go with the twin plate. He told me that a single plate is the way to go, but i wanted to stick with the twin plate as it was a smaller design and suited to the track work that im doing.

He advised agaisnt a tripple plate, where in fact he wouldnt sell me one nor likes to repair them as they are much weaker than the twin plate due to the plates being thinner. He also said that adding an additional plate does not increase the holding force exponentionally like people would think, its more to do with the diameter of the plate..

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I'm a jockey kunts...

OK so the experts think that triple plates are shit as are twin plates, so get the single plate then.. see how you go.

Looking forward to the results.

Im not changing anything Joe... my twin plate will be fine once the adjustments are done...

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I'm a jockey kunts...

The Tilton twin will be fine for 'race' situations, where it does one start followed by 10 minutes of racing. (only using the clutch on downchanges)
Skid pan and standing start lap dash is closer to drag racing in terms of clutch (ab)use.

The problem with Tino's clutch at the moment is due mainly to insufficient room between the flywheel and the front of the gearbox. The Tilton uses a hydraulic throwout bearing to push the clutch instead of the usual fork/pull arrangement. When Tino went to the bigger 225mm clutch Jim had to shave as much space as he could to get it all in there.
The bearing has 6mm of stroke, the clutch needs 4 mm to release. There's a fine balance to get it working right. Unfortunately there's no adjustment, only by machining spacers under the bearing, which obviously require the box out.
As the clutch wears the fingers lift, thus closing the gap more. So the trick is to have enough of a gap that there's some room for some wear, yet still have enough stroke to fully release the clutch.

Well explained Doug! Stuff you know your stuff! haha

How much ya raisin the back up mate? Or you going up all round? What are the spring rates on your coils? Lotsa questions. haha

So eloquantly put (sp) Dougy...

hmm prolly need to raise it an additional 2cm i think to be sure its not rubbing...

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I'm a jockey kunts...

You still need to pull the guards Tino, you need a fair whack of travel if you're going to punt it hard, look at some action shots of subi's on the track to see what I mean.

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