I dont mind doing the welding right.. as im scared body filler will crack hence why i went for the sikaflex... absoulte nightmare this is atm... All my doing as i was trying for the easy way out...

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I'm a jockey kunts...

Hmmm pencil grinder never seen them before jonno.. bunnings have them?

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I'm a jockey kunts...

body filler wont crack, unless the surface wasnt prepared correctly. or unless you plaster it on way to thick!

plus, welding over where there could have been sikaflex-sealant etc- nightmare... they have to be sooo clean, otherwise the welds look like poo. and you'll have to bog it anyway.

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Long live the WRC

I had orignally used a automotive filler and was told it would crack around the flex joints. So i removed it all then decided that since the joins were filled with silcone type of substance from the factory then sikaflex would work perfectly.. Then i got told it would flex too much so i have tried to remove it..

I will get everything welded and plates put in then probaly a small amount of filler to flush everything out.. Do it right i suppose once not twice..

But i dont really want to strip the whole engine bay and loom out to do it.. I will suss whether i get it into a state that dosent need sandblasting whether i will need to remove all that gear..

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I'm a jockey kunts...

If the sikaflex was applied to a clean surface blasting will have no chance of removing it.
steel wire wheels on angle grinder and die grinder the only way.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Pencil or Die Grinder: (Like a bigger dremmel)



Bunnings should have them.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Oh yeh... my dremel wasnt liking being dug into the sikaflex.. plus the head of its too small to do much..

Ill check it out tom and decide what to do also..

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I'm a jockey kunts...

Empty the bay and get it blasted. End story.

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www.racewars.com.au

So many times I've heard horror stories of sandblasting gone wrong. All the promises of "yeah, we do this all the time" end up with some moron who doesn't know the difference between a car panel and a truck tipper body. Any blaster that'll take Sika out of a seam will rip the shit out of the nearest panel. The only way I can see working in this case would be a wire cup brush on an angle grinder and hours of hard work. Rug up, wear glasses, you'll be picking those wire needles out of your arms for days after!

How about a butane paint stripper (low pressure gas torch)?

Not enough heat to temper the steel but perhaps enough to soften the sika and remove it with a scraper blade?

Found this online:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5163932_remove-urethane.html


"For More Durable Surfaces

Step
1

Heat the adhesive with a propane torch until it softens. This way works best on metal and concrete, but cannot be done if the surface beneath the glue is fragile.

Step
2

Insert a chisel or sharp faced tool to chip away the urethane once its temperature has been raised above the softening point.

Step
3

Gently wipe down the area with a warm wet cloth to remove any loose residue."

The alternatives are solvent mixtures...not real user friendly and I don't know how available it would be.

http://www.dynaloy.com/Products/urethane_products.html

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