Don't get a K&N, unless its got an aftermarket ECU and its not using the AFM, it will kill it for sure. I would go with the Apexi Power Intake, dry filter and does what it does best... FILTER!!! If you checking compression by yourself you would want readings around 150-160.. correct me anyone if i'm wrong. What you really want to be looking for in compression test though is that there isn't more than 10% difference between the cylinders meaning from highest reading to lowest reading!

You also mentioned piston slap, did you diagnose that or did a mechanic? If it does have piston slap then regardless if it noise disappears when the oil warms up isn't a good thing! Just a matter of time until it spins a bearing, cracks piston or a conrod lets go.. you will have a nice sized hole in the block which i hope you have extra cash for! EJ207 here i come .

there was nothing this morning when i started it...
Are those drift filters that autopro sell dry or wet??

__________________
Mazda 3 MPS

They are shit.

Go with a known brand, dust/grit will fuck your motor otherwise.

P.s all ej's have some piston slap when cold, forged pistoned engines more so.

"Piston slap is nothing new to piston driven internal combustion engines and compressors. It is the secondary (sideways or perpendicular) movement of a piston against the side of a cylinder bore where the primary movement of a piston is intended to be parallel (up and down) to the cylinder bore. All piston driven internal combustion engines and compressors have a certain amount of piston slap.

Excessive piston slap occurs when the clearance between the piston and the cylinder bore is too great. The piston to cylinder bore clearance becomes too great either through wear, mismatched pistons and cylinder bores at manufacturing or, a combination of both. The audible noise associated with excessive piston slap is due to the perpendicular impact of the piston against the wall of the cylinder bore. Audible piston slap is typically loudest when the engine is first started up. The pistons then expand with heat reducing the piston to cylinder bore clearance thus, reducing the perpendicular impact of the piston against the cylinder wall and its resulting noise."

Piston slap when cold is normal.

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

when i got my compression test done at All star garage awail ago, i had 170 psi in all pistons except 165 in the front right they told me anything from 110 to 180 is the range anything below 110 is a tired motor.

It also apears to have a Z32 AFM. That normal??
I fitted the K & N pod of my crx ...
Im running a apexi intake kit in my MPS, and it still seems to get a bit of dirt/dust on AFM wire.. so not sure what to buy to fit the GC8.

__________________
Mazda 3 MPS

Im using a 3A racing pod they cost 40 dollars they are dry type and from a study i read they are either the best or second best (cant remember which one) u can get and they tested it against K&N and apexi and heaps of others, from moto equip which are in most major shopping centres i think. I have a Z32 but i have Power FC which u can change in the settings to use one of them so i dunno about with a standard ecu

z32 afm = power fc, check under the passenger carpet, you may be pleasantly surprised

& with a z32 afm on there you'll have no issues with an oiled k&n pod

that would be orsome, cheap car with a pfc sounds like the deal of the year.

It looks like a Z32 afm.... ill got check the numbers i maybe wrong as the last time i saw one was 6years ago in my s15

__________________
Mazda 3 MPS

have u done a compression test yet? what numbers did u get?