(only referring to fronts)
previously had slotted DBA4000's with bendix ultimates, they got glazed badly and were needing replacement anyway.
they started emitting a high pitched, annoying as hell squeaking noise while driving, which would disappear when foot was applied to pedal.

i then replaced them with DBA slotted streets and same pads, they were sweet for a week, then they started squeaking, and have progressively gotten louder as the breaks wear, they're not glazed and also stop squeaking when pedal is applied.

it's been suggested that this may be because of 'calliper float' but i have no idea what this is or break problems in general.

my mate that's a mechanic also is a bit stumped

so any opinions or suggestions would be welcomed, as the noise is doing my head in

Find a big hill and get some heat into them.

P.s 'Brake'

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

k ill do that now
you better be right or you owe me a set of pads

I keep finding pebbles between my rotor and inner rotor guard.
Might be worth a look. Have same pads and they are silent

__________________
Straya

just gave them a workout down a quiet hill with no children in proximity

thanks heaps rosco
they're now quiet, and i also was able to cook an egg on my rotors

EDIT:
they just get noisy again when they get cold
sigh

Brake pads squeel when they are not up to temperature. Just give the brakes a good stab and they noise will dissapear. When they are cold again, they will squeel.

Learn to love it

Come listen to my car, it makes baby jeebus cry.

__________________
[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Wikipedia - Disc Brake

Brake squeal

Sometimes a loud noise or high pitch squeal occurs when the brakes are applied. Most brake squeal is produced by vibration (resonance instability) of the brake components, especially the pads and discs (known as force-coupled excitation). This type of squeal should not negatively affect brake stopping performance. Simple techniques like adding chamfers to linings, greasing or gluing the contact between caliper and the pads (finger to backplate, piston to backplate), bonding insulators (damping material) to pad backplate, inclusion of a brake shim between the brake pad and back plate, etc. may help to reduce squeal. Cold weather combined with high early morning humidity (dew) often makes brake-squeal worse, although the squeal stops when the lining reaches regular operating temperatures. Dust on the brakes may also cause squeal; there are many commercial brake cleaning products that can be used to remove dust and contaminants. Finally, some lining wear indicators, located either as a semimetallic layer within the brake pad material or with an external squealer "sensor", are also designed to squeal when the lining is due for replacement. The typical external sensor is fundamentally different because it occurs when the brakes are off, and goes away when the brakes are on.

Overall brake squeal can be annoying to the vehicle passengers, passers-by, pedestrians, etc. especially as vehicle designs become quieter. Noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) are among the most important priorities for today's vehicle manufacturers.

Apart from noise generated from squeal, brakes may also develop a phenomenon called brake judder or shudder.

^^ The Entire Page Makes for Quite a Good Read ^^

I think sweet innocent infant baby jeebus was more interested in watching you intentionally try brake traction on every corner in Collie, I know I was

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

in case you didn't read my op guysh

it's squeaking, not squealing, which i believe are two distinct noises.

and the pads are brand new marc, so it's not the sensor (i have also come across that write up in my googling prior to posting here)

so yours are squeaking when you drive around kato, not just while your breaking. and really loudly?

Jordie either or your answer was covered in that wikipedia link, which was only posted as it made for a good read.

Either you have some grit or film between the pads and the rotor or theres something amiss between the pads and the calliper.

Simple fix may be to wipe some thinners on the rotors and see how you go.

__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Getting them hot should have burned off any glaze & transferred some new pad material to the disks.

Have you checked the pad wear indicator on the rears?

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]