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#1
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DIY Boost gauge install (GC8)
Okay, so here's what you're going to need:
Items: 1x Boost gauge 1x Mounting device (clamp, cup, etc etc) 1x Standard screw driver set 1x 3mm drill bit 1x Soldering Iron & solder 1x Eye terminal 2mm (I think the colour code for them is blue) 2x 1m lengths of 2mm single core wire (for wiring the light) 1x 1m length of silicon/pvc pipe to suit your current turbo set up (mine was 8mm thick with a 2mm wall so 6mm internal diameter) 1x packet of T-pieces to suit your piping (I got a packet of 5 from Bunnings for around $3.50) 1x 3mm heat shrink 1x cigarette lighter or matches (car lighter won't work, this is for melting the heat shrink) Some cable ties (size doesn't matter but smaller is preferable) About 5-10 beers depending on your drinking time Some body flexibility (to be able to fit into the footwell of your car) 1. Prep the area, figure out where you want to mount your gauge, be it in the dash compartment (via a triple gauge pod), the A pillar, dash itself or the steering wheel column housing which is what I used. 2. Once you've got a place sorted, then you're going to want to drill the holes for your mounting bracket. As I picked the steering column cover I'm going to describe that, but it shouldn't be too hard to work it out for whatever place you decide to put your gauge. Take out the screws for the cover (there's three on the underside of it, bit awkward to get to) and then take the cover away from the wheel itself, you don't want to accidentally drill into your steering wheel bits. I marked mine out with the drill bit I was using (just gave it a couple of turns to mark the plastic) 3. Now that your holes are drilled, go ahead and mount the bracket in place (your gauge should of come with screws to mount it, I'm unsure of the size of mine) fit your gauge to it for a bit of a dummy run just to see if it fits the way you liked. 4. Now it's time to connect your vacuum hose, cut a section of your pipe running to your manifold from the BOV mine had 2 lines running to the same spot so I just used the empty line. A quick check with the engine running proved it had vacuum pressure., now get your vacuum hose and feed it through the steering column and dash until it pokes out in your footwell. Pull the excess and fee d it into a grommet hole in your firewall. The one I used was just under the carpet above the footrest next to your clutch. Once that's through the grommet just go into your engine bay and pull it all through taking care it doesn't get caught on any of the pedals. Once in the engine bay just run it along your air con pipe because you know that runs cold and then follow it around and up to your manifold, connect into hose and secure with clamps or cable ties. 5. Now go back into the cabin and fit the other end of your vacuum hose onto the gauge, and mount it properly into the bracket. Now you're done installing it. Cable tie the excess vacuum hose around various other hoses in the engine bay so it's nice and tidy and go for a test drive and if it works happy times, if it doesn't just re check over all your hose connections. That's all I have for now as I don't have my soldering iron on me to do the illumination wiring. Although with my gauge (Autometer Phantom series) it only has 2 wires on it, a black and a white one. The white is the positive for your light and the black obviously being a ground. I'm just going to use the light off the fog light switch as it only comes on when your headlights are. Other people use the radio illumination but as my car has an aftermarket head unit it's always illuminated and I didn't really want that. I will make an edit once I get my soldering iron tomorrow at work and do the rest of the wiring. Hope this helps a few of you. Last edited by STiV6; 11-07-2012 at 01:11 PM. Reason: fixed Fuck up. |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to STiV6 For This Useful Post: | ||
#2
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Pics dont work mate!
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TEAM オレンジ Dyno queen |
#3
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They do if you copy them out of the quote.
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2015 Forester XT Premium 2020 VW Tiguan Allspace teejay: If I wanted a comeback Id wank in front of a fan |
#5
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why would you install it in the way of the fuel gauge and coolant temp???
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#6
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It's not in the way of the fuel at all. Covers water temp but my power fc tells me that anyway. In a more understanding reading of degrees and not a variable resistor with a needle...
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#8
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Sorry mate but that's a total fail of an installation.......
The gauge will only see the pressure that the wastegate sees & NOT what the engines Manifold pressure actually is! You need to tap into the vacuum fittings on the front of the inlet manifold (After the throttle body) to see what pressure the engine is actually seeing. I'll bet my left nut your gauge never reads into vacuum the way it is & maxes at about 10 psi....... Also, if you have a power fc why the fuck are you running a manual boost 'T'???
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] Last edited by Rossco; 08-07-2012 at 09:32 PM. |
#9
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I read somewhere that happiness BEGINS at 20psi!!!
NFI if it's true or not...... |
#10
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Quote:
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Tags |
boost, diy, gauge, gc8, install |
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