Made some enquiries and was told it would be a headache.

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[B][COLOR=red]Jerk of the circle.[/COLOR][/B]

In my humble opinion it really doesn't make any sense to put the EJ207 into new age dak dak if you are using it as your daily driver. You do need the easy on hand torque that the EJ257 will give you. If you are just going to use the car as a track car then the EJ207 make good sense.

side note: I am having a new EJ257 Short motor and crank put together by Nic at ASG. He is using Cosworth -Rods, Bearings, Pistons, Rings and Darton sleeves.

PM if you want more details.

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Funny looking German Subaru

As the RAC horsepower of the car is decreasing (I think EJ257 has 99mm pistons whereas EJ207 has 92mm pistons?), it used to go through approval pretty easy.

However, the process at the pits has changed in the last year or two so always wise to speak to them first.

As Dave said, easier to build a reliable 2.5L than do the conversion.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Dave i highly suggest close decking the block also!!!

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I'm a jockey kunts...

Would need to have emmisions re-done.. Need to get engineer report etc etc.. Costs a fair bit to do.. Ive been through all that with my build..

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I'm a jockey kunts...

win!!!!!!!!!!

Would close decking a daily car cause cooling issues?

I know for your car you increased the RAC hp which requires inspection. From what I've been told (again could be shit, haven't done it personally) decreasing the RAC hp to the lower spec engine (they sold 2L in the base impreza) was a much easier thing to do. Again only way to know would be to speak to the transport department.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

I didnt have an issue at all with cooling. Stuck in traffic and the temp does rise (not dangerously though) but that is because i have a bigfkoff turbo right under the engine..

There alot of ppl that run CD without cooling issues even as a daily with little to no difference in temps..

The reason why i suggest CD as it keeps the bores from moving. The sleeves are still goverened by the little webing around the standard bore. CD the block eliminates the movement. When we pulled apart my previous engine the sleeves had moved. This block was not CD. For the extra 1k its well worth engine longivity in my book..


I think changing the engine capacity from stock still requires that all those things are furfilled. Even though models come with that engine capacity it does not matter..

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I'm a jockey kunts...

Any change in capacity will need an inspection.
And you simply can not but an older style engine in a newer model car.
It used to stop people putting old iron block 350 chev's or Clevo's in newer model vehicles.
It has been a number of years since I enquired but this was definitely the case last time I looked.
The up side is a 257 and 207 wont look any different to the TRG boys. For that matter 90% of perth WRX member wouldn't pick it either. Me being one of them.

Would this be the way to go for someone chasing a reliable 300whp in an 06 STI?

Or even 270whp for that matter.

My car is stock atm and im deciding if strengthening the engine is the way to go, or to just go to the 4g63 lol...

If the strengthening of the engine is going to cost ~6k, it doesn't make much financial sense.

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hello my name is tommy
i don't have a Subaru