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  #11  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:32 PM
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See link below. Schedule R start for the basic requiremets.

The national rally code will provide details of classes etc.

CAMS Online Manual of Motor Sport

Having owned a gravel rally car buy omething already built for your first one. It'll save you money and you will start to understand what it means to own and run one.

Get a 2 wheel drive as it gives you more flexibility in the events you can enter. A good driver in a 2WD will always beat a slow driver in a 4WD.
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  #12  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony View Post
that is a possibility, But i really want an answer to my first question but. Can we get back on topic? im not asking what car i should buy. But what are bear minimuns to pass scrut and race. This answer will apply to all cars.
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  #13  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:38 PM
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Car wise. Im guessin cage, extingusher, log booked, suit, helmet, gloves, intercom, restrictor, coilovers, tyres.
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  #14  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:40 PM
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Car wise. Im guessin cage, extingusher, log booked, suit, helmet, gloves, intercom, restrictor, coilovers, tyres.
+ Navigator keen to pair up with a rookie driver?
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  #15  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:45 PM
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+ Navigator keen to pair up with a rookie driver?
Ill just tell the GF that we are going on a nice drive through the bush. Nek Minnit whats the helmet for.
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  #16  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
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Ill just tell the GF that we are going on a nice drive through the bush. Nek Minnit whats the helmet for.
That is gold!
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  #17  
Old 18-12-2012, 02:51 PM
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I know everyone has said it but it costs the same to put a cage in a 18 year old GC8 as it does a brand new spec C. Same goes for brakes / seats / harnesses / intercom / coilovers / licensing / log book fees / tyres etc. Down the track a 5 speed dogbox costs the same aswell depending on how far you want to go. At the end of the day it will still be a 18 year old car with very little resale value.

Parts are getting harder to get hold of now for GC8's aswell.

I didnt bother checking (because I would always use a weld in cage) but I think CAMS changed the rules as of the beginning of this year so that cars had to have a weld in cage. There is a grandfather clause for existing cars obviously but they definitely want to get away from bolt ins.

If you are even thinking about double duties i.e. take the cage out of a gravel car and use it on the road during the week you are kidding yourself. It has to be one or the other. Once a car has been on gravel they are never the same.

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  #18  
Old 18-12-2012, 03:08 PM
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Certain bolt in cages used to be able to get homologation if I remember correctly. But seriously, weld in cage is the only way. I would never have trusted myself with a bolt in :P
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  #19  
Old 18-12-2012, 03:36 PM
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So, you want to race a GC8.

Buy it. Tear it down. Can do that yourself for labour saving.

Motor rebuild given its going to be 12-18 years old. 6k to do it right. Probably a fresh turbo too, 1k.

box rebuild, or a dogger, cos you will smash it. 5k

Cage... 3k for a good one. Panel and paint etc another 5k

Seats gauges interior terratrip nav helmets etc 5k plus

diffs etc 3k

Brakes 2k

misc 4k

x2 multiplier

60k?
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  #20  
Old 18-12-2012, 04:04 PM
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Screw this
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