Increase idle speed to 1500rpm. Because race car.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

If you have replaced the fuel the pump to a different one from what it has been tuned with it should go back on the dyno. Racetorque refused to put a fuel pump in my car without running it up on the dyno. And they weren't trying to charge me more dyno time it was just for insurance & piece of mind for both parties.

Fuel pump might be a dud, my 65c shit itself quickly and was only pumping 98.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Fuel pump is fine. Start up and idle pressures are where they should be, and exactly the same as when the Walbro was in. Regulator is also fine. It's something past the fuel reg...

I'll be getting a compression test done, asking to check the plugs and getting the injectors tested and cleaned. After that, it'll be somehow testing MAF, crank and cam angle sensors. Not sure how, they're all so fucking expensive.

Going to ask on SOWA if anyone with a 08+ (that doesn't daily it) can lend me a MAF sensor for 2-3 days to test.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

If you feel like trekking up to my place you can borrow mine after Wednesday as I'll been on call and will have the work ute for seven days.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

try running an oil flush prior to your compression / leak down test. I ran lifter free and found that cleans the ring lands.

I had a look at your intake, I can see it's a short unit with the air cleaner up against the MAF. The issue you have is there is not adiquate length of pipe work to straighten out the air flow before the MAF reads it. You can test this by getting a length of hose 3 " say 500mm long connecting it to you MAF holder and putting the air cleaner on the other end. Or just fitting the stock air box back on.

have you looked at removing the MAF and going speed density ?


Ps I changed this post as my phone craped it's self half way through loading

No-one tunes speed density over here on open source to my knowledge as it's only available on Carberry ROM or something?!

Was also contemplating going back to stock airbox while troubleshooting issue but will mean a re-tune and no doubt lose some ponies.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

This. Agree with the theory 100%

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

How does the stock airbox straighten out though, because the MAF location is supposedly in the same position. Going to check that when I get home.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

I probably should have mentioned a number of posts ago, but this was actually happening on the old engine with stock intake. It rarely stalled, but revs dropped to below idle when coming to a stop. The engine would stumble and manage to recover itself each time. I'm still leaning towards a sensor or fueling issue.

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[I]trolololol[/I]

Having a relatively straight and smooth flow before the sensor allows the air flow to kinda smoothen out and be less turbulant.

The sensor is only touching the air flow in one little point in the middle of the air stream. It expects that the air flow through the pipe to be relatively uniform, so the measurement it makes in the centre of the pipe can be extrapolated out across the entire cross section to give you an accurate represenstation of air mass. If the flow is turbulant, or maybe more flow through one side of the pupe than tgeotheror whatever the case may be, then the measurement made by the sensor may not be accurate.

When i was still using the crappy MAF, i used a MAF housing similar to this. See it has the honey comb straightener fins about 4-6" before the sensor. These are there to try and straighten the air flow and get a uniform flowover the sensor. Its more important if you fit and then scale to larger than OEM diameter pipe aswell. As when you go bigger, you can measure more air before you hit 5v, but the trade off is you lose fine resolution of the sensor. (Important for smooth running/idle/cruise)

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Doing it for all the wagons out there