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#31
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With a light weight clutch/flywheel, some people report you possibly lose some very low down torque. Making take offs etc harder. But, as I said, the C/F friction material is incredibly easy to modulate. So, I dont usually have any issues unless I muck up on a clutch engagement etc. Once the engine is spinning up in the higher RPMS, its fine.
But, I have tried to offset this with my build by deliberately going as light a weight as possible for all rotating mass. So, a one piece carbon fiber driveshaft, this weighs less than half of what an STi driveshaft weighs, and has no center bearing, and center unis for smoother operation. I have multi piece rotors all round. Up front, the willwood 2 piece rotors weigh less than a set of brembo 2 piece rotors. Yet they are a few mm thicker, and a few mm bigger diameter. And at the rear, the Biot 3 piece rotors weigh less than a conventional set of rear brembo rotors. And, being a 3piece, if i upgraded to a hydraulic handbrake, I can remove the handbrake drum part of the rotor, and free up even more rotational inertia. Plus, I have aimed for light rims. The Gmax Drift 6 arent the lightest rim out there. But they are pretty good. Especially considering the price. I could spend 4 times as much on a name brand japanese set of forged rims, and only save 0.5-1kg per corner. Plus the removal of unnecessary interior has free'd up about 150-200kg of vehicle mass. All up, it makes for a very sporty feeling car.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there Last edited by Bram; 30-05-2015 at 01:50 PM. |
#32
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My Sti steering wheel collection.
I also have a mint VAB wheel, but Im missing the airbag. And I also have a genuine mint condition S202 wheel. I also have a mint condition Nardi V1/V2 Sti wheel, and a mint condition Nardi V3 Sti wheel too. Thats most of the really rare STi wheels. Still need to collect the 4 spoke STi wheels, and also find a airbag for my VAB STi wheel. Plus, I wouldnt mind collecting some of the limited edition Tuned by Sti wheels too. And maybe collect a light grey GRB wheel/bag too. Also need a late GDB or SG9 STi wheel. If you look close at the center wheel, youl see its actually a legacy wheel due to the audio controls. Proper STis had no use for such things.... Until 3rd gen that is, where they went soft haha. As you can see, Im a bit of a sooby nut.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there Last edited by Bram; 30-05-2015 at 02:54 PM. |
#33
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More random pics. Front end mock-up.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#34
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Its actually longer than that. I had to cut it down a few items because I literally hit the post character limit.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#35
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Hey Bram if you feel up for it, could you detail how the previous tune caused the catastrophic failure?
What factors caused or combination of factors would be of interest |
#36
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Quote:
To cause damage like that, the engine must have severely leaned out. Like not just a little bit. Like a whole fucking lot. plus the tuner was having a very hard time controlling boost with the 3 port. So it was overboosting and probably exceeding the stock injectors ability to supply fuel. After the first few revisisions, the tuner no longer wanter AFR inputs from my PLX wideband. (Alarm bells should have been ringing for me at this stage) BUT i thought the car was invincible, and i whole heartedly trusted the tuner. I didnt pay enough attention to the logs, and what was going on. I probably coyld have prevented it if id paid more attention. its just one of those shit things that happens in life.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#37
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If you want to email tune your car. I dont think its wise on a heavily modified car. I think its fine if youve just got a TBE and want a little tickle up. But once you start really modding the car, things like bigger turbos etc, i think you really need to take it to a tuner shop.
I also dont think you should email tune unless you have a fairly good understanding of whats going on, and how to read the logs. Plus a solid mechanical knowledge so you can be sure everything is right 'physically' with the car before you start. And lastly. I dont think ANYONE should be using throttlehappy / kido or whatever he calls himself now as that guy has blown up way to many engines. Mine melted a piston, but his usual flavour is ringland failures. He talks big complex jargon, and tries to bury you in bullshit when things dont go right.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#38
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Mad build, love it.
What would you do different second time round? Saw you punt this around RAC first round this year it looked awesome, smooth and quick. Sell me your carbon shaft or get the fuck out.
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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6. Last edited by nick73; 30-05-2015 at 06:48 PM. |
#39
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Quote:
If i was doing it again Id do these things different. (This isnt in order of importance, just in order that it comes to me.) Firstly. I wouldnt waste so much money on "bullshit" mods that dont really do anything. If you look through that shopping list on page 2. You can see ive basically got every mod ever made for subarus. Realisticly, alot of them do very little. So instead of going for max number of mods, Id concentrate on most effective mods. Secondly. When i bought alot of the sti conversion parts, i bought them piece-meal individually ticking off each part. Instead if doing it again, id just buy/commission a cut that had everything i needed in one go. So for this build for example id chase down an 06/07 sti cut. And id chase down an 05 sg sti cut. Then combine them for the ultimate forester. Which is basically what ive done, only i bought each part seperately and paid a premium. Thirdly. Id have an end goal of where i wanted the car to end up. With this build i just kept adding to it bit by bit. I didnt have a clear end picture of where it was heading. I just wanted to build the most mental forester. I ended up buying alot of parts that i didnt even use, because i found even more upgraded parts by the time i went to bolt them on. So i doubled up on alot of stuff. Also, if i had of known i was going to build a circuit orientated forester. Then id strip everything, get the body blasted, a cage welded in, then fully painted before i start on the rest of the mods. Forth. As mentioned, i would not get a 6spd from a 2L sti. I just dont agree with the ratios. Id hunt more for a 2.5L 6spd. Or maybe look at biulding a hybrid box from a long ratio lib/foz and combining it with sti diffs. Or Id use the money i saved by not buying bullshit mods, doubling up on mods, and piece-mealing all the parts together, and put it towards a sequentially shifting, dog gear 6spd. (Because race forester) Fifth. Id go more mental on the engine build. Bigger turbo, more head work. CD'ed and sleeved. Aftermarket managment and more horsepower. If i was doing it all again. Thats all id change. Id still go a early SG forester because i just love the cars.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#40
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Every cunt knew that Throttlehappy's tunes were dodgy, and popped engines. It was all over Rexnet. It was news to no one except the poor fuckers who had him tune their cars.
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sled, yeti |
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