united pump e85 race blend.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

been pure e85 only since 2012. so thats 3 years of exposure to the acidic stuff.

Im gonna have to pull the lines that connect the tank to the hardlnes aswell i think. hopefully wont have to replace the entire hardlines as thats a lot of hose.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Wonder if you'd get a better outcome in if you dropped the United and went to Power Plus, like Ash did. Really difficult to tell, still E85 i guess, would be interesting to know if there was any differences with formulation. Ash has a good contact there I believe.

Ash made surprisingly good power on it I have to say.

Rated @ 116RON.

http://powerplusfuel.com.au/web/dyn_...aSheet_E85.pdf

Powerplus Racing Fuels - Powerplus E85+

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Should have bought an STI

Gee that stuff is expensive. E85 in the US is about $2.0 a gallon. The manufacturer is gouging.

thats an interesting thought. i wouldnt mind having a drum at home just for convenience over having to drive a 60km round trip to fill up in a car thats no longer suited to the streets. although i dont know if that e85 would be any less corrosive than pump e85?

Maybe i just go the methanol instead. only $220 per 200L. lol.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Yeah dunno, this is all I can find about it:

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Should have bought an STI

Car is pretty much all back together now. Started it up and she started up nice and easy. But there was a CEL. Read the ECU there were 2 DTCs logged. Both front and rear O2 sensors heater circuits read low. I figured it maybe something to do with the slightly larger MAF pipe or the 3 Bar MAP sensor? But it was for both HEATER circuits? Weird. Both were plugged in fine.

I have had these codes previously very intermittently before and never got to the bottom of it. Usually it would only happen once in a blue moon, and would clear and not come back. But this was constant.

Had a flick through the wiring diagram to see whats common to both the O2 sensors and the Main relay supplys power to the heater circuit on both sensors. Its a funny relay with 2 sets of contacts. The first set supplys power to all the ECU controlled components. And the other set power the 02 sensors. And they are the only thing on those contacts.

Popped glove box out found the relay and started testing things and the problem went away. It seams that by disturbing the relay, the issue became intermittent again. Thats a good sign the relay is playing up.

So I wired in a pair of relays in place of the original Main relay. Started up and seams fine?

I hope that sorts the issue. As said ive had it a few times before, but it was never common enough to actually diagnose and fix.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

The main circuit is sensor power and the clicking or fluctuating on startup is the preheater power . The preheater power from memory only runs the length of the fuel prime . Preheats o2 sensor to operating temp which increases accuracy and longevity . Heater type o2 sensors dont like fuel on them before operating temp is reached. Sounds like you had a fUlty relay or faulty earth . The 2 relays if wired the same way with same power sharing will work fine . The dual contact relay should be wired with a common supply power shared but 2 separate latching powers earth's and supply's its to stop signal interference with the factory narrowbands between the heating and signal circuits , due to such a short voltage operating range .

Its common for the relays to fail or have earth issues with age.

Yeah. I wired them up exactly as if they were the main relay. I opened the old main relay up, and you can can see the way its supposed to work. 2 terminals for the coil. And then 4 terminals for the 2 pairs of contacts. It seams both contacts operate exactly the same. But are kept seperate for some reason. It would seam the contacts that operate the heater circuits stay on while the main relay is on. And I cant see how they could turn off without turning off the relay. They must be controlled and monitored on the negative side of the heaters by the ECU. Hence how it is able to detect a fault and log a code.

My only concern now is the relay is actually switched by the ECU. It controls the negative side of the coil. The original main relay coil is 80 ohm. My new relays are 90 ohm each. Which means together they will pull nearly double the current on the ECUs trigger for them. Hopefully it will be fine.

The old main relay didnt appear to have any diode/resistor protection against self induced spikes when the coil field collapses. Which i thought was odd for a ECU switched relay.

I am an auto electrician BTW.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

finally got around to permanently fixing my airbag light on the dash. Since ive removed all the airbags, seatbelts and even the SRS module, Ive had the annoying light on the combo meter.

Everyone knows about the 3.3 ohm resistor trick for if you put a different seat in etc. But what about when you have NO SRS stuff left at all except the pesky light? The only way to make the light go away is feed IGN+ power to the wire at the cluster. The SRS light wire is at terminal '8' on plug 'C'. You need to find this wire. Cut it. Then get the end that goes to the combo meter, and join it to IGN+ which is terminal '9' on plug 'B'.


You cannot even remove the globe because its an LED built into the combo meter.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there