Man missed the post regarding having it tuned today. Pretty impressive mate.

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The one perkent...

This excites me to finish my car. Sadly I probably won't have any time to work on it until late this year.

Awesome result bro

much disapointment.

spent all day mucking around on the handbrake. I modified the fulcrum to push rod length on the lever. I made it as short as possible. literally couldnt go any closer as the rod ends would actually hit the fulcrum.

I also welded up the frame as it was very flimsy and had actually cracked AND bent apart in the half dozen or so tests i did on it. the thing is made of 2mm steel and is a bit of a piece of sh1t. So i beefed the entire thing up with additional steel welded into it and extra mount points. So its pretty solid now.

I tested it and it still dont work properly. Its alot better, and it even does skids on gravel which i couldnt do before. But it just will not lock up on the pavement.

I called GSL rallysport and spoke with Greg about it and he is certain that the cyclinder size is way to big. But at 5/8, i probably wont be able to go any smaller as that is pretty small for a master cylinder.

He suggested i get a group n style tandem master cylinder. which is a long inline cylinder but it has 2 parts to it, so i can still keep abs and X split braking.

So i dont know what to do. pretty bummed about it. i just want to do a skid in a subaru. is that such a hard thing?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

keen to see when the twin scroll version spools. mines on song by 3600rpm. the TS would probs be ramping up at idle.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

After speaking with GSL, I think the problem is the twin cylinders have too big of a bore size. Trying to compress 2 x 5/8" cylinders will not generate enough hydraulic pressure. As we know, pressure is force over area, and the 2 cylinders have way too much piston area to be usefull with the force i can exert from the lever mechanism.

I have changed the lever ratio to try and increase force on the cylinders. This has improved it alot. But ive shortened the length from cylinder push rod to the pivot/fulcrum, to as much as possible. So i literally cannot increase the ratio any more with out increasing the main lever length. And i dont feel like cutting a hole in my roof and putting a 3m long lever on it. So ive exhausted that possibility.

I have seen options where i can hook a cable mechanism onto the hydraulic lever so it also locks the park brake drums simultaneously . But i think im flogging a dead horse trying to persist with the twin cylinder arrangement.

Now im looking at converting to a tandem cylinder instead of twin cylinder. (Tandem like the group N style handbrakes.) I believe these are 5/8s bore aswell. But where they differ is the force is all inline so instead of trying to compress 2 cylinders side by side (double the piston surface area), you are compressing only one 5/8 cylinder, which is inline with the 2nd part of the cylinder. So the same force is directed THROUGH both cylinders, instead of spread over both. So effectively giving each brake caliper double the pressure than what the twin cylinders can do for the same lever force with the same lever ratio. (let me know if my logic has failed with that theory ???)

From what i can tell, the genuine STi ones are like $2k plus. So thats not an option. AP racing ones are gonna be like $1k. A bit much for a something im gonna use a few times a year. And I have seen ones on ebay for like $250 (cylinder only, will need to make my own frame and lever mechanism. Im fine with that as that way i can make it as strong as i like).

I dont mind spending another $250 on trying to make this work. The APS twin was about that much, and i have enough steel bundy and fittings left over to remake the inside lines. And a bit of steel framing is cheap apart from my time. So i would only be losing that much. But by not doing it i will lose out a fair bit, as im basically wasting all the time/lines/fittings aswell as the twin cylinder kit cost. And even more considering i have already commisioned a custom CNCd handle from Russ' mate. (still keen on the CNC part mate. even if it wont go in the car, it will still look bitchin on display in my lounge room)

But then i have the issues with an unknown ebay quality cylinder on something as important as the brakes.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Is nauli (Steve's) grp N set up that's for sale of any use to you??

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

you are a legend. I remember skimming over it but didnt give it any thought as i thought my APS twins would work. thanks for the reminder. it is the exact cylindet as what i need. Just spoke with Steve. Still available so im gonna go down and check it out. No one buy it before me or else ill have to go bash you and steel it back.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Genuine STi Group N hydraulic handbrake master cylinder and lever mechanism aquired. The cylinder is part number 264014s000. It is actually a AP racing master cylinder, but has the STi branding and part number milled into the side. Havent measured the bore size but it looks maybe a bit thinner than my twins.

The lever mechanism looks like something i would make in a shed. Possibly a modified OE lever? (Im thinking this may have originally been a possume bourne kit? as the lines are labbelled with pbms) Im going to make my own mechanism anyways, as this one is designed as a stock location setup, where as i want it vertical lever ken block styles. It also came with lines too. But i might get them modified/chopped so they go directly into my firewall bulkhead pass through.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Bram...yes, AP make most of the higher spec STI brake stuff...and yes it would have been a PBMS supplied kit as they were the sole STI motorsport agents for Australasia and MMS would have acquired it from them.

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No Subarus currently owned

It defiantly is the PBMS kit Id say MMS knocked up the lever tho . The master cylinder with AP branding non sti is still 800 bucks good pickup Bram