Not going to restrict air flow?

Wouldn't it be safer to enclose/isolate the pod in it's own cavity of the wheel well?

If you hit standing water on the track/road, water and debris are fly everywhere and potentially into the pod the way it is now.

__________________
Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

there will be no wheel archs due to the fender chop and trying to fit wide rubber. the wider tyre will interfere directly with where the stock liners would be in that area when full lock and full bump. so enclosing it fully isnt really an option like a conventional in guard CAI. The front of it is open directly to the air duct in my front bumper as it is. I have literally aimed the duct on that side directly at it.

I will probably make a flat plate to seal the bottom of the bumper across to the subframe like the stock liner. But doing much more than that is really troublesome. I think having it open, but with a shield will be ok. It will just need more regular cleaning. Which shouldnt be that hard due to the easy access with out a liner. It is really tight in there, and i expect tge tyre will only be a few cms off it at its worst clearance conditions.

The guard shouldnt restrict airflow. It is close to the filter near the top, but as it goes down, it tapers away from it allowing about an inch spacing at the bottom. And the way the pleats work, air should be able to still make it up into the area near the top of the guard.

The filter is big. Its really big. it is the BIGGEST filter KnN make with a 3inch opening. standing water will splash all around and get it wet. I guess that was probably gonna happen even before the liners were removed due to the front ducting. and i guess water mist could be pulled through if the filter gets wet. (not too big a deal once i get the ecu and MAFless tune.) I guess you could call that an unintentional water injection. And in order to fully submerse the filter (potential hydro lock engine) i would need to go through a puddle as deep as the headlights. so im not worried about that aspect.

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

picked these bad boys up at auction in japan. just gotta wait for the slow boat to bring em over

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

oh yum

__________________
[I]trolololol[/I]

Not quite the exact size / offset i wanted. I did want 18x10.5/24. This will be very close to the strut, but should just clear. will give better clearance on the outer edge under the flares though. The price was right at just over 2k. Once landed, it works out about $1k cheaper than the AU dealers wanted and about $500 cheaper than the best price i could get out of J-land. And it would take about 5-6 months to order them in, as Rays have to make them on order.

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

I was also considering the TE37RT Black edition. They are a bit lighter, but i just love the style and colour of the ZE40s. Supposedly a very strong design. The TE37 is a bit too cliche` aswell. Every other nissan driver who can afford them, have them. Although it is a sexy shape, its like a 20yr old shape. And i need a change from the gmax drift 6 (te37 styled)

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

Wow, just over 2k is a fucking good price.

__________________
[I]trolololol[/I]

just over 2k in japan. still have to import them. But yeah. cheaper than any other price i could get for Rays forged anywhere else. buying them in AU is over 4k.

The seller bought them and they were the wrong size so put them on yahoo. i nabbed them. 3 are brand new in box. one is brand new but was removed from box and test fitted. (no tyre) so they are brand new.

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

Still waiting on banjo fittings for the handbrake. And cannot really go any further with the wide conversion.

So I put some work into the Hoonigan handle. I decided to modify the mounting arrangement, so i cut off the slot i had machined in it to mount. Then filed it smooth. I then drilled it hollow from the bottom to 16mm diameter and as deep as i could go.

I then hand tapped a 3/4"UNC thread into it. I also counter bored a 3/4" diameter opening for the first 30mm of the hole into the bottom. I then went to bunnings and discovered they do not sell 3/4"UNC bolts. (i was gonna weld the bolt onto the lever, then screw the handle onto the bolt.) So instead i bought an M20 bolt from bunnings and then ran the 3/4UNC die down it to convert it. (you would be surprised how similar m20x2.5 and 3/4-10 threads are.) I then opened up my counter bore to 20mm. That way i can fully screw the bolt up into the handle and there will be no exposed threads. With the smooth shank of thr original 20mm bolt, fitting perfectly into the 20mm bore. And the 3/4"UNC threads engaging inside the handle, hidden from site.

I then slotted the custom 3/4"-20mm bolt to accept the handle i made earlier. Just needs to be welded on. But im gonna leave this bit until after the hydraulics are working so i can weld it at the perfect angle. Ive decided to not get a custom lever laser cut, as the one i built, although a bit rough looking, will function perfectly. I also drilled out the bolt si its hollow for additional weight savings. (im a bit worried having to much weight in the handle will actually cause inertia to engage the brake during hard acceleration.)

I also cut a series of weight saving holes into the lever. Its made of steel and is strong and heavy, so even once the holes are cut, it will still have ample strength.

Then i began the long and tediuos job of hand finishing the Hoonigan handle. I not usually one for super bling and perfection of finish. Im more of a function over form guy. But given that this handle is a master piece of CNC work and the centerpiece of the handbrake. I thought i would go all out on the finish. So i have hand sanded it to a near mirror finish, removing all the minor surface flaws. I progressively used 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit paper. an every face, and groove. About 10 hrs of hand sanding untill i was happy with the surface.

Then onto the calico buff wheel for a mirror polish. Spent nearly an hour on the buff getting it immaculately smooth. like stupidely smooth.

then i cleaned all the buff polish out of all the grooves with a rag, brake cleaner and a selection of small picks.

During the week im gonna look for a place to get it bright dipped anodized.

And lastly ive prepped and painted the frame. I didnt go to as much effort with finishing the surface as i did with the handle. Just a clean and paint using a metallic charcoal enamel rattle can. A few light coats and a week to fully cure and this should

Handle with weight savings, and custom bolt.


hear it is after the 1500 grit.


Polished and cleaned. Check out the mirror surface.




Painted frame.

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there

so I just ordered another 2 x Rays Volk ZE40s in Matte Blue Gunmetal (used). This pair are in the 18x10.5/24 5x114.3 offset i wanted originally. These have a couple of minor blemishs and a scratch behind the spokes, but overall are in pretty damn good condition.

__________________
Doing it for all the wagons out there