Spending spree in full action. DSS 800hp shafts arrived. So did the Swift springs. And also got a little bit of carbon fiber canard and lip action for the front. Downforce Yo! Also in the middle of organising a front brake upgrade for my brake upgrade. looking at converting the Wilwiod kit to 14"x1.25" (355mm x 32mm) rotors. The 6pot calipers can be easily converted to run the 355mm rotors. All that needs to be done is order 4 x longer studs and 4 x spacers for the radial mounts. And fit the bigger rotors. The bigger rotor rings fit onto my existing hats. So i dont need to upgrade them.

Also spent a bit of time on the hydro today.

Put a genuine AP racing overhaul kit though the master cylinder. One kit per side.


Made up the hoses from firewall to master cylinder


Conected up the cylinder. Note that ive installed bleeder fittings at the master cylinder.


Ive bled the system up and am pretty happy with the feel. Made the rookie mistake of getting brake fluid all over my freshly painted frame. It stripped the paint off with ease. Derp. Once its properly bled, im gonna have to dis-assemble it and blast and paint the frame again. Should be fine as i wont need to disconnect the plumbing in order to do that.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

via Imgflip Meme Maker

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Picture fail

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Ignore that It's browser fail. MS Edge Sucks balls

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

I like how your mods just escalate and escalate and escalate..............

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

FUK-MUTHA WHORE DOG WENCH TITS SLUT FAECES COW SKANK FUKER-ARSE

Much disappoint, many anger, large confuse.

The hydro handy still will not lock the rear end properly. The STi cylinder is working much better than twin cylinders. But it aint 100% right yet. What am i missing here? Why will it not work pefectly. The cable handbrake does a better job of it. Ive bled it to the point where i am certain its free of air locks. I even installed bleeders at the cylinder to ease the bleeding procedure. The brake pedal and lever are firm. Ive played with the pivot points on the frame and have it setup with max force multiplication to the cylinder.

Is it a driving technique thing? I am testing/trying it on bitumen at approx 50kmh in a straight line. I have DCCD lock at min and also in manual mode. i have the handbrake switch on the hydro connected into the DCCD controller too. I clutch in, and then yank the wand. The braking force is significant, and fairly aggressively slows the car, but it will not lock up properly.

Interestingly, if i do the exact same test, but also apply the foot brake, it does seam to lock the rear. But the normal braking force slows the car rapidly as you would expect. So its not really enducing a proper rear skid.

I have not tried to do it while turning as im just playing around in a less than perfect area. I believe if i do it while turning in aggressively, it would do a good skid. And this would be the typical way you would use it. Trying to do a skid in a straight line is not an ideal use of the handy brake. Am i expecting too much from it to lock the rears in a straight line? Perhaps if i tried it while turning it would do a good skid?

But In my mind, it should be able to lock the rears like how i am testing it above? Is it only designed for gravel use? Surely these cars belt around on tarmac too. the cylinder came from a tarmac rally car.

Do I need rear calipers with more piston area?
Better rear pads?
Is it possible i still have an air lock?
Is there something in the standard brake circuit that would prevent rear lockup? i have hooked in after the rear bias valve, which is supposed to limit rear brake force to prevent an unstable rear lockup. but ive plumbed in after it so it should not affect the circuit. ABS isnt activating either.
Are my tyres to sticky?
Is the center diff to grippy?
Will it only work on gravel?
What can i do to fix things?

Contemplating getting P-Mu D1 spec rear pads.
Gone back to thinking about joining a cable from the lever to my parking brake cables. and making it a dual cable/hydro hand brake.

Should i just get it out on a skid pan a see what happens when i try it while turning in? Maybe its working perfectly, and im just expecting too much from it to do a straight line skid?

maybe my left arm is too weak. my right is the stronger arm...

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

My oem handbrake can drop a skid, even on bitumen.

If your clutch is then the rear diff shouldn't be overwhelming the braking force. Sorry for the dumb question but are you plumbed in to the handbrake shoes or the rear brake calipers?

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

im using the brembo 2 piston calipers for the handbrake. the drum brake (normal park brake) is cable operated. Im contemplating adding a cable linkage from my hydro hanbrake lever and joining it onto my cable brakes. so that way when i yank the lever its puts on both the rear disc brakes and the rear drum brakes.

if you look at this hydro. hanndy you can see it uses both hydraulic and cable brakes. i want to do a similar thing.


I suspect that maybe the brembos are too small piston area. With hydraulics, its all to do with pressure and surface area.

pressure = force / area. force = pressure x area.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

I haven't fitted one to a car with abs , but without abs when Ive done it ,Ive done away with the old rear lines all together , then gone from the rear output on the master cylinder to the hydraulic hand brake master . Then from the master to the rear calipers and bled the system at the calipers .

When Ive seen it done with abs the rear out puts from the abs master to the rears are tossed and they are run to a dual master left and right then from the masters to the rear left and rear right calipers . The reason I haven't done it with ABS is every car Ive done it to has been race or rally without abs and with pedal boxes etc . Most race drivers wont run abs or a booster period.

yeah i get what your saying Amtrapid. ABS itself shouldnt affect things as im plumbed in post ABS. But in keeping ABS, it means keeping individual circuits for each wheel. which means you need a twins or tandem handbrake cylinder. If im using a twin cylinder, then that means im effectively halving the pressure i can build because its split on 2 cylinders. (double cylinders = double the surface area = half the pressure)

But the STi tandem shouldnt suffer from that same problem. Because its cylinders are inline with each other instead of parralell, then the force thru each cylinder section should be equal to the total force on the entire cylinder. That means that im not halving the pressure generated like when going twin cylinders.

This is evident by the fact that the tandem cylinder works significantly better than the twin cylinder. Even though it uses a slightly LARGER bore. 0.625" on the twins and 0.7" on the tandem. So even though its bigger cylinder, its only working like 1 instead of 2. So its an improvement, but it just isnt enough to fully lock up.

if i had a race pedal box with front and rear cylinders, balance bar, no ABS etc, then i could use a single handbrake cylinder and make large pressure in the lines with it. No ABS and no Diagonal split braking means a single cylinder would be possible. So a single cylinder with the smallest possible bore size eg, 0.625" would make the most pressure.

But even still, it still may not lock the rear end up fully if the rear calipers are too small. The rear brakes on any road car are always gonna be pretty pathetic. (Even brembos.) Because being rear brakes, they simply arent meant to do large braking forces. Infact on a road car, they specifically try to avoid large brake forces at the rear to prevent the rear from locking up. They add rear bias valves to prevent the rear from locking up and use alot smaller piston areas, disc diameters etc. Reason is that if you lock up a front, the car will massively under steer. Its not desireable, but its manageable. but if you lock up the rear, you get a massive and very difficult to control oversteer. OEMs will do anything to avoid the latter. (although in the case of a handbrake, it is exactly what ypu are trying to achieve) Also because the weight transfer during braking means the front brakes can work alot harder than the rears before locking up.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there