Yeh he is but he's not keen on pfc's at all .... lol loved the face i got when i told him i was gonna put one in haha

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Foxy

Not speeding Officer........Qualifying.

Wow....thanks alot for all the useful feedback. Didint expect such a huge response...

That pretty much sums it all up and will most likely be what Ill be doing....once again cheers all.

Couple of small points.... if the factory ecu on the car works, drive it to perth, take it to ASG, get them to fit it and sort it all in one go, then if there are any probs or something isn't right, it can't be blamed on you for f**king it up while fitting it.

Also, just for reference Rossco the reason not to solder anything that is ECU related and especially signal wire related is that over time due to the vibration and heat changes within a vehicle, solder becomes dry and cracks and can cause a break in the connection causing epic fails, using crimped lugs or connectors is the best rule of thumb to ensure a long lasting connection. This can be read in the MoTeC installation guide which I went through when doing MoTeC training a few years back with Sean at ASG.

At the end of the day its your choice which way you go and what you do, but think of the $$$'s that can become huge if you swap ecu and drive down, road tune it just to get it down here, or have a soldered signal wire for your cam/crank (most important signal wires in your loom) crack and lose its connection.

My 50c worth for the morning

enjoy kids

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Rob I don't disagree, But I'm not talking about soldering into the ecu harness plugs themselves (which can cause corrosion issues inside the ecu or on the connector pins) but splicing 2 signal wires a couple of inches before the ecu.

Solder makes a fine electrical joint provided it is done correctly i.e. heat the pieces up sufficiently, apply the solder to the items being joined not to the iron and do not allow the joint to move until it has cooled. Using the correct solder is important too (proper 63/37 & not dick smith 60/40 crap). Ideally solder joints should always be mechanically supported. Heat shrink over the joint helps to take some strain off the solder joint itself, don't tape it.

The Motec installation manual says:
"Wire Splicing
Preferably use a crimp splice. If soldering a wire splice, wire movement near the joint should be avoided otherwise a fracture may occur at the stress point created by the solder. Use heatshrink sleeving to insulate and provide support to the wires."

If you are not willing or able to use the correct type of crimp & tool, which can be expensive, it is probably better to solder the joint.

Solder isn't as unreliable as you are making out, if it were so our ecu's , instrument clusters, stereos & climate controls would be failing often......They use thousands of soldered components and are exposed to significant temperature changes daily.

It's also worth noting that the signal output from the cas & cam sensors will rise from as low as 2 to 3 Volts when cranking, to over 50 Volts at higher engine speeds.

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+1 for solder...

(And this is coming from the Electronic Tech in a marine environment - where a 110m 'floating machine of death' , is subject to a lot more stresses/vibration than a car would ever see).

For my BCS and WB sensors, Motec supplies the pins like Stace posted, yet I soldered, just to be sure. I guess it all depends on your ability and experience...

Brent.


P.S - Neil - PFC will be fine. Rob... Burnout!

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Yes, and all those components are soldered onto printed circuit boards. The wires running into and from an engine are experiencing much more vibration, heat changes and movement than anything behind the firewall.

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I reckon go buy yourself an apple airport and go wireless in the whole car.....

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Last time I checked my ecu was behind the firewall ........ And that is where the cam /cas wires are swapped, not in the bay.

We are talking about the Ecu end of the harness in the footwell, which Subaru kindly form into a 'u' shape for strain relief and also afix the loom to the ecu mount......Soldering there is zero risk, the loom is well supported & suffers no more vibration than any other wiring inside the vehicle.

In my own experience, when I've made my own harnesses previously (efi 13b's into carby chassis' with out buying looms) I crimped all the ecu connections (map, coils, injectors etc) but I crimped & soldered anything carrying a high load (fuel pump relay & wiring to pump, Main ecu relay etc) and never had an issue.

But like I said each to there own.....Crimp if you know how to do it properly or solder if you know how to do it properly, both methods work fine.



Arguing about which is better is pointless.

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^^ From someone who works on mega dollar defence systems at component level. ^^

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Well after a few calls and a visit to Tony Flood Im going for a Motec ....

Simon at GTI Performance centre will be doing the job and tuning so Ill soon have an Apexi PFC with hand controller for sale