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  #21  
Old 10-01-2011, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtrally View Post
Call me old fashioned but I still call a GT-B gearbox a GT-B gearbox, everyone else calls it a Version 4 STi gearbox. They both have the same code but people think they are worth more or are more desirable if they lie about where it came from. Am I alone in thinking a box from Mr Myagi's Legacy wagon is going to be in better nick than one from a Tokyo drifter's STi?.....
I agree Doug, thats what I was getting at

A Liberty gearbox is gonna have been babied compared to that of an STi...

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  #22  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:52 AM
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my version 3 STI RA gearbox will be up for sale at some point in the nearish future jezza. Apparently had a recon pretty close to when i purchased it, MMS may be able to confirm. It's a strong box.
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  #23  
Old 11-01-2011, 02:16 AM
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What are your plans in terms of how you drive the car, Jezza?
Are you aiming for more track/pan time, hence a stronger box and upgraded motor etc?
Or is it more like "well the box is stuffed now, may as well replace it with something which will take even longer to stuff next time"?
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  #24  
Old 11-01-2011, 10:40 AM
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Well the car only has minor power mods atm - stock block, stock turbo etc...

At the moment the car has only done 2-3 skidpans and a drags night.

Once the car is in stronger form (new donk) I want to get more involved with it and do some no limits nights, and a trip to collie. But I dont see myself turning it into a dedicated track car at this stage.
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  #25  
Old 11-01-2011, 12:45 PM
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I would rather have a factory spec c or late model jdm sti long engine than a rebuilt ej207 which would both be the same price.
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  #26  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:20 PM
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Full GD cut into a GC8 isn't easy without the right tools, equipment and knowledge.

I'd really look at what you use the car for. Everyone bangs on about gotta have a 6 speed + EJ207 + brembos + ... That's fine if you can afford it or have a specific build in mind, but in 90% of cases it is overkill.

I tried my best to destroy a MY05 5 speed, but it kept going and going. Granted its a 4.44. Sub 300hp, 5 speeds are ok if you can drive and have some mechanical sympathy.

6 speed + EJ207 will be at least $10k. If it was my money, I'd get a replacement 5 speed for $1-2k (unsure what they cost tbh) and drive the tits off my car till something else breaks. Remember, your 'weak' current 5 speed has lasted 10+ years.
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  #27  
Old 11-01-2011, 02:41 PM
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Thats it John! I couldnt break my 5 speed with multiple 6k drops and skidpans etc. Just dont shift super fast and you will be fine.
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  #28  
Old 11-01-2011, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUSSGT View Post
Thats it John! I couldnt break my 5 speed with multiple 6k drops and skidpans etc. Just dont shift super fast and you will be fine.
Thanks for this little piece of additional confidence. A few people have mentioned that my build will eventually shitstorm my gearbox. I've seen you drive and know you don't mind giving it a bit on launches and on track.

To be honest I don't think I could do a 6k launch 'be to weary of hearing a bang', but then again I don't have the track experience you've got.
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  #29  
Old 11-01-2011, 03:06 PM
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Thats it John! I couldnt break my 5 speed with multiple 6k drops and skidpans etc. Just dont shift super fast and you will be fine.
Its very rare to kill one by dropping big rpm launches in first.
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  #30  
Old 11-01-2011, 03:20 PM
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Most people break gearboxes by not putting enough revs on.

If your wheels are spinning, that torque is not going to the weakest part of your drivetrain is my theory. The car is going to find the easiest thing to break. Better to break traction than gearboxes, shafts etc.

This theory only works to a certain limit though
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