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  #241  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:25 PM
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Most of the big power builds here are EJ22T based. It is such a tried and tested platform plenty of 8-9 second cars running them here plus a good many track/hill climb cars too.

I wont ever use a non sleeved EJ25 block for any kind of power build. The only reason I have one is because the car had the sleeved block already when I bought it. You can close deck them and all that but the walls are so thin on them I just wouldn't use one.

I'm fully aware lots of people can and do use them to great success but I'd prefer to go 2.1 or 2.35 stroker and If mine is fucked I will do a 2.35 build.

I haven't touched the car for a couple of days though and at the moment I hate the fucking thing. My current mind set is to just fuck the lot off and buy something German but I'll probably change my mind a few more times before I actually do decide what I'm doing with it.
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Last edited by dazdavies; 13-10-2017 at 05:38 PM.
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  #242  
Old 15-10-2017, 10:32 AM
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my 2.5 motor is set at 8,500rpm and I bounce on the rev limiter regular as it revs so quick, I use the longer liberty rods with wisco piston to suit...
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  #243  
Old 15-10-2017, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildbill View Post
my 2.5 motor is set at 8,500rpm and I bounce on the rev limiter regular as it revs so quick, I use the longer liberty rods with wisco piston to suit...
So is that a +2mm rod and the piston is 2mm shorter between pin and crown?
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  #244  
Old 15-10-2017, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
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my 2.5 motor is set at 8,500rpm and I bounce on the rev limiter regular as it revs so quick, I use the longer liberty rods with wisco piston to suit...

Thanks Bill,

I actually think having a lower rev limit is what has done me the harm. After having a conversation with Leigh from Deshele we think that's its valve float and vtv contact when the limiter has kicked in. It was set to 7800rpm. Next time round I'll be upping it to 8500rpm.

Lots of people telling me to go Ferrea valves this time as they would not have snapped like these Supertech's have.

Also let's not forget the engine has done almost 18000 miles. The last time it saw the strip was about 6000 miles ago which is where I think the vtv contact was probably at it's worst. So I think fatigue since the vtv contact has played its part. Although there was absolutely no sign of bent valves as the car always ran perfectly and still produced very good power.

The only give away which in hindsight I should have investigated more was that the car had started to need to turned over a few times before firing. I put this down to just the colder weather starting here. It was probably a compression issue.

Anyway, I'll post the pics of the strip down in the next post.

Having stripped the short motor down this morning it was certainly due a refresh. You can see that it sees full boost and the limiter several times a day
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  #245  
Old 15-10-2017, 08:20 PM
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Good job I was planning that winter refresh on the engine. Pity the dropped valve beat me to it.

I've stripped the block down this morning. Bearings were on their way out. Rear thrust bearing, both halves were cracked!!

I've had zero mechanical sympathy for this engine so for almost 18,000m I think its held up pretty well but it was certainly ready for a refresh.

Piston skirts and bores were in great condition which is a testament to Galloway's fantastic engineering work. The wall of the dropped valve cylinder is damaged but I'm hoping an oversize rebore will sort that. I'll see what my local engineering shop has to say about that.

The current plan if the block is salvageable is for a set of CP 100.5mm pistons (purely because of the sleeved block), new heads, Ferrea valves and currentGTX35R turbo fixed by AET Turbos.

If the block is goosed then I'll have to bite the bullet and go the 2.35 route but I really can't afford one of the blocks at the mo so it will have to wait a few months.





























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Last edited by dazdavies; 15-10-2017 at 08:21 PM.
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  #246  
Old 15-10-2017, 08:49 PM
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Interesting the cracking on the #5 main bearing. What do you reckon caused that? Do you think the pull to push clutch conversion may have something to do with it? Like because its got the clutch force going the opposite way to normal (and probs with more force than oem design was made to accept). Or maybe because its the furtherest main bearing from the oil pump?

With the wear, scuffing, and CRACKS on those bearings, It looks like it wouldnt have reliably lasted a great deal more, even if the valve hadnt of snapped.

The piston skirts are in good nick. The coating hasnt even scuffed off, which is pretty is pretty common for skirt coatings like that.
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Last edited by Bram; 15-10-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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  #247  
Old 15-10-2017, 09:52 PM
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Defo clutch related. Just need to adjust the stop on the pedal and that problem will be solved.

Your careful placement of reliably has been noted. Bearing (excuse the pun) in mind this has done 18000 miles now it's done well considering the level of abuse it's had. The valve has surprised me but the state of the bearings hasn't.
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  #248  
Old 15-10-2017, 11:38 PM
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Sorry. I couldnt help myself with that comment.

I know that bearings are considered basically a consumeable on high power engines. Its one of the primary reasons race engines are (should be) pulled down for a freshen up from time to time. I wish i had of done it to my engine after 4-5yrs, but it just wasnt something i had thought about until after I spun a bearing. (Hindsight hey...)
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  #249  
Old 16-10-2017, 04:15 AM
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Yep if I'd kept things sensible at 400-450hp it would have lasted years but the car would just bore me to tears. Even with the power it has its tame compared to the GC I had so I just wouldn't want it toned down at all.

This would have been a non issue had it not been for the valve failure. I'm confident the bearings would have held out until the refresh in a month or so.

It's all irrelevant now though what's happened has happened. I'm too hard on the Car. I really do use it and abuse it every day. I've decided that before I repair this I'm going to buy myself a really nice daily driver. I've got one now but it's a 17 year old pile of shite and I just don't like driving it so I never do.

I've seen a really nice 2016 Audi A3 S line that i like which will then allow me to make the Hawkeye a little more of a weekend special with less emphasis on the daily stuff and not the daily abuse it gets now.

I could have kept this off the forums and FB and nobody would be any the wiser but that's not what I'm about. I've been open and honest from day one of this build and shall continue to share my successes and failures.

One thing is for sure It'll be back, better stronger and significantly quicker than it is now. Watch this space and mark my words
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Last edited by dazdavies; 16-10-2017 at 04:16 AM.
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  #250  
Old 16-10-2017, 04:15 PM
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food for thought, 1 could use a an old closed deck block from a RS liberty or early RA, bore out the 2litre to 97mm or 99mm bore and insert a diesel liner, change to rear thrust. it works!! I use only 10w-60 Castrol change very regular.
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Last edited by Wildbill; 16-10-2017 at 04:18 PM.
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