thinking of buying one of these, i shouldnt have any problems getting this tuned should i?

who's the best for this now days? preferably SOR

thanks

In the age of Re-flashing factory smart hardware I don't know why you'd bother going backward to a basic stand alone?

Why don't you just go with a Verso which maintains all factory functions, driveability, immobilizer & failsafes?

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

i thought a link would still retain the factory immobilser?

driveabilty, well as long as its reasonable i would be happy, lots of positive comments on here about them.

what do you mean by failsafes?

can a verso be setup to run without the maf?

as i said in my ecu wtd thread, i havent ruled out a verso at all, just interested inother options.

thanks

Not sure link man is Leigh Hynes works out of Busso but comes to Perth for tuning talk to the boys at Stechnic if keen


Sent from da iPhone using Tapa on someone's unsecured wifi

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race tape y pipe running .05 bar till spares turn up.

The 44s is old school nothing like the g3-g4 platform link is now running on not many will touch the old link ecu unless it's the newer version on the g4


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race tape y pipe running .05 bar till spares turn up.

i know its oldschool, but that doesnt put me off that much (i really liked my old haltech e6A!)- now if finding a tuner that will tune it is an issue that could be a deal breaker.
thanks

Failsafes as in factory staged rpm limiter, over boost protection, ignition timing self learn, knock retard & corrections (all parameters are tuner variable), fuel pump control (GD has a fuel pump speed controller driven off the ecu), power steering load sensing etc - just to name a few

Factory transponder immob is part of the ecu.

GD MAF isn't an issue & is reliable, you won't get remotely close to maxing it out with stock heads,cams & 205 bottom end. Only the GC8 film type MAF's are/were unreliable.

I don't understand why you'd be interested in giving it the flick when it won't be your limiting factor power-wise, nor be unreliable.

MAF systems take less time to tune (less $$), cold start is always spot on, off boost mapping is more accurate (MAF resolution) & they allow for more variables before someone needs to pull the lappie out & retune it.

The 44s is getting on a bit & the new Link G4 or Vipec are a different kettle of fish with much faster processors & more developed firmware......Even if they have no knock control out of the box -STILL-!!

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

why do they get such a good rap on here then? (i know the posts are old, but that doesnt worry me much)

i thought the immob had its own ecu, so that is a negative aspect for me.

i know the maf has good points, but given the chance i prefer map for simplicity if i can.

i can get this ecu $350, tune would be 3 or 400 im guessing - seen posts on here saying verso from asg is $1200? - fairly decent price difference, but if its going to fuck with my immob & finding a tuner is going to be difficult i will give it a miss.
thanks a lot

A couple of things here,
One, the 44s has knock control, rather basic, but it does have it. Which makes the fact that the G4 doesn't have it rather annoying

Two, the factory immobiliser still works, if you have a Link and you buy a new key, you need to refit a factory ECU, code the key with Select Monitor, and then you can refit your Link. But you can just plug the Link in without needing to recode keys.

Three, I agree with Balistic on the way the cars drive with a Link, I had a 44s in my car, so torquey and responsive compared to MAF tune.

Having said that, I've upgraded to a G4 and it is so much better then the 44s I had before, especially regarding the little things like cold start, overrun fuel cut and the actual software itself.

The 44s is old now, but speed/density is definitely the way to go, air flow meters suck. You should be able to pick one up pretty cheap, then save and get a G4 or a Vipec (same,same).
Just remember, its all in the tune.

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Its just the internet dude, its not real.
F.B. Racing
01 WRX (STI badged)
2010 XR5 Focus
06 Impreza Hatch 2.0i

MAF is a more simplistic set up & quicker to tune. MAP uses calculations 'guestimate' the actual airflow - A MAF measures it directly.

44s were good when there was no better option, Heck the Microtech Digi-2 Pro was a 'good' ecu back in my Mazda 13b turbo days!

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]