It's been like it since I had it. Mine says a33-660-r00 but looks exactly the same.

Another Question, Should I be able to push the valve in when out of the car. Is it supposed to be spring loaded or anything. At the Moment it doesn't really move,but I assume it doesn't have to move much. Is there any way to test the operation of it out of the car?

Is it supposed to be pressed into the flange? Maybe I can press/secure it back in for now, reset the ECU and then source a new one.

Hopefully not too expensive.

Great, I feel like I'm getting somewhere.

No you can't just push it back afaik...it's a stepper motor with about 20 steps from fully closed to fully open.

It's the plug end that's loose on yours is it? That's what I'm gathering from your posts.

Here's how to test it:

An IAC motor can fail one of two ways, either the motor short circuits and stops working or the motor will develop high resistance and cause the IAC control motor to react slowly, either failure can cause the engine to stall at idle. When a trouble code scan is performed it sometimes won't always detect a failed or weak IAC motor.

To check the IAC motor remove the unit, with the wires connected turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine, the IAC should move in or out.

If the IAC motor does nothing it has probably failed, replace it with a new unit and recheck the system.

Note: whilst the IAC motor is removed clean (use aerosol carburetor/ throttle body cleaner) the passages the IAC uses to control idle air speed, also inspect the IAC for a build-up on the seating (pointed) end and clean as necessary.

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Thanks Heaps,

I'll Test it after work. I heard they are expensive for something so small.

Its all starting to make sense now.

The valve seat looks clean, but I'll still grab some upper engine cleaner from Subaru.

Changed the IACV. Seemed much better at first.

I will keep troubleshooting when got the time.

My IACV was loose as in the mounting, but didn't seem to have affected my idle too much at the time in comparison to the new one.

(mind you the one I put in is still 2nd hand but symptoms are the same as before)

Afm!

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

AFM for sure, mine behaved very similarly on one of the occassions where the afm died.

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..... umm yep, 'cept he said he replaced the AFM in his 1st post

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MY97 Liberty Outback Ltd Wagon
1990 Mk3 Supra turbo fully rebuilt 7M-GTE (Older son)
1991 Celica GT4 (Younger son)

I Have a brand new AFM and I have tried swapping the two several times and there is no difference.

I also tried resetting the ECU by plugging together the black and green connectors, then holding the throttle Full then Half, but I cant get an ECU reset.
I do get a different code while driving after a minute - 32(O2 sensor?) but the car is driving fine at the time. When I use the black read connectors though I only get the code 24 (Idle Solenoid) and no code 32.

I have a feeling the Idle solenoid I got is stuffed. It gets really hot even if the throttle body is quite cold at startup. With it removed from the throttle body it moves in and out on ignition on/off. I did this a few times in a row and the valve stem flew out and almost lost the spring. Is this supposed to happen? It's never stalled and always starts straight away.

I reckon this 2nd hand one I scored for stuff all is broken and is too slow/too much resistance hence the heat - or is this normal. But Bunbury Subaru want $900.00 for a brand new one - WTF!!

Anyone got a good 2nd hand one they want to sell or I'll have to check the wreckers. Otherwise I may look into this O2 sensor (Even though Im sure its the Idle solenoid)

Turning on the A/C makes this undriveable mode occur alamost instantly although sometimes I can drive for ages without it occuring with AC. Its really only at low speeds/throttle when it begins and then stays.

I don't know its so intermittent its annoying. I may have to bite the bullet and go to Subaru so they can play - but $900.00 for such a tiny motor/solenoid is what scares me away in the first place and it might not even be the cause - just a code and then they throw parts.

I bought this car as a reliable fun daily driver, but its been quite the opposite (except for the fun bit) and the price of parts is insane.

Ok I have another IACV on the way.

In the mean time due to the 32 code while driving in diagnostic, I have a new "Champion (WTF) O2 sensor"

I removed the old one quite easily, And the new one is a different plug.

I was told Bosch over the phone, but when I got to Repco I landed myself a Champion O2 sensor that there is NO information on the internet at all.

I asked for a 3 wire - my00 2000 Subaru Impreze wrx O2 sensor. This is what they gave me (even after quoting bosch from the system)

I cannot find anything on the internet - and I have already removed old sensor, cut wires and I am ready to join and re-install. Now - Do I solder (Temp for stainless) or just crimp/ heatshrink. Should I even be using this Sensor (World First IT seems).

All I want is a WRX that works like for everyone else. I don't flogg it - just every now and then I want some boost - apart from that a "DRIVEABLE CAR"(Which it is not....)

PLEASE HELP ME _ I SEE WRX'S EVERYWHERE AND THEY ALL WORK GOOD. (ANd F**K you Subaru dealerships, you remind me Of Seadoo. I Don't see Holden and Ford fans Bitchin' their dealerships....)

Bite bullet... you want nice smooth driveable car... Ring ASG...Book car in...Wait....Drive and smile.