Hey Everyone,

I have an MY00 WRX that I just keep having problems with. It's in great condition(Engine bay looks new).

Recently I had a surging/stuttering under boost issue which Subaru and all other sources put down to the AFM. I changed that and it was the same. So I changed the practically brand new BKR6ES-11 Plugs that came with the car for PFR6B and all was Great.

Then an intermittent problem appeared, Starting mainly when taking off from stand still or down changing for a corner. The car will jolt between gear changes and then go into "Undriveable Mode" This Mode could last for a few minutes or until I turned the car off and on again- then do it again within minutes/seconds or not at all . It was so intermittent and now its gotten worse -basically getting to be all the time no matter how careful I try to drive the car.

Main problem is I can't hold a constant coasting speed - it will either just slow down or speed up - jerking between the two. For example trying to do 60km/h it will just keep creeping up, so you lift the very little throttle you have applied, and it will slow down, so you gently push the throttle again to maintain speed and there is nothing in the pedal. You hold the same pedal position then BANG - the drivetrain gets a shock as power returns. My Gear changes are disgusting in the "undriveable mode" unless you ride the clutch at a higher RPM. It's like there is no fuel when I very gently push the throttle and then it all comes in a big jerk/bang - which leads me to speed up again and on my way for a ticket. It is also embarrasing because you are always going slow/fast/slow/fast through roadworks or 60-80 zones and the cars is visibly jumping/lurching forward. It is much better at 100-110kmh but is still there.

When I push my clutch in idle drops to the first couple of lines on the Tacho(5-600rpm I assume) and hunts a little bit. When not in this "mode" it idles about 8-900rpm.

THEN!! I noticed when in this "mode", stationary or rolling at speed, in neutral I cannot hold any rpm from about 1500-3000. I goes Up/Down/Up/Down for a bit Hunting majorly then it burbles and The CEL comes on. Then If i take my foot off the throttle it goes down to 500-600rpm and the CEL goes out and idle rises a bit.

The CEL code is 24 -Idle air control Solenoid. I pulled it out and its quite clean - a bit of carbon. I think I have a fair idea how it works, but have no workshop manual for this car. I wiped it a bit and someone said to grease (why) it but I didn't and put it back in. I noticed the solenoid didnt move much in or out(1/4mm) just rotates - I assume when voltage is applied it controls the solenoid which adjusts the valve on the end to allow for closed throttle at idle, turning on a/c etc.

Now the car has never stalled (although almost when I try to hold revs at 2000 in neutral when it hunts for a while then burbles and light comes on, sound like its runnning on 3 cylinders when it burbles)

It sometimes goes in and out of this mode 5 times in a mintue, or stays like it for 30 mins, or used to go a week without doing it at all - BUT ITS GETTING SO BAD NOW

It feels more like a throttle position sensor problem than the Idle control solenoid. But I don't know. Ive only had car for a couple of months and it's all pretty new to me. So far all I've done is change the Radiator, Plugs(What a mission) and AFM/FIlter. The car is stock except for a 3" Hitech Exhaust(Cat back I assume) I use BP Ultimate 98 only and I don't thrash it. I just wanted a zippy daily driver.

I will test the TPS soon with a multimeter soon just to rule that out. And If I rotate the Idle control solenoid while it's installed while the engine is running it seems to affect the idle.

Is it possible the Idle control solenoid is Stuck/Sticking? Is it supposed to move without voltage? Can I apple 12 Volts to any of the Pins while out of the throttle body to see if it works?

Please is there anyone out there with any ideas? Am I damaging it by continuing to drive when it does this(Apart from clunking/wrecking the gearbox/driveline and wrecking the clutch). I tried swapping the AFM again with another but its the same.

I have searched and searched the internet and various forums and cannot really find anything similar with this hunting at 1500-3000rpm. RPM barley hunts at idle in this "mode" if at all. RPM is just lower than when the WRX is performing as it should.

Sorry for the long Post. I hope someone reads it all and can lead me in the right direction. I don't want to go to Subaru and fork out a heap for such a trivial problem.

Thanks Heaps Perth WRX Crew

I just realised I've owned this car for 6 months!!!!!( I said a couple in my post)

I was thinking it was only a couple, Because its still so much fun to drive when it runs good - It hasn't worn off yet.

Always loved the GC8's from the earlier rally days, I'm a Subaru Convert Now..... Almost.

I Just want it to be like most other Cars I've owned and now own. No problems like split radiators that look brand spanking new, misfiring on new sparkplugs that a dealer serviced before I bought it from a private sale, intermittent undrivability, STUPID Alarm system(God dam Hijack Mode - Master code,sticky keypad etc). I wish I could open my door and take my seatbelt off without turing the car off(not while driving of course)

I now notice every WRX on the road and I love Em.(I am a Subuaru Convert)

I just want mine to work and be reliable.

TPS failing or incorrectly adjusted will do this.

But also check:
blow of valve sealing under vacuum
all vacuum lines for splits
all pre & post turbo induction hoses for splits/loose clamps.

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

check your throttle cable..

also, do upgrade your fuel pump to a larger one, ie walbro 255, bosch etc.. stock fuel pump might be playing up hence the intermittence as it might be sending fuel to the injectors on an inconsistent basis.

if u r running a FMIC, do check for air-leakage and ensure there's no split hoses. likewise for a tmic, do check the joiner on the throttle body to the tmic is intact

just my 2cents.

__________________
GO APR

My money is on the fuel pump.....if it isnt getting the correct fuel pressure the engine will show these symptoms.

its a cheap fix (~$180) and also a necessary upgrade to the car if you are going to be pushing more power from the engine.


I would also suggest using a can of upper engine cleaner, its ~$15 from subaru and be enough for 2 goes.

Steve

__________________
Long live the Classic!
MY99 - 245hp & 360Nm.......Best ET - 12.771s

What does the OIL PUMP have to do with the fuel system?????

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

derrr Rosco, keep reading that same sentence! It's all explained!



But seriously, i think it was just a typo.

__________________
Signarape!

edited.. typo lameo

__________________
GO APR

I got away with driving for about 45mins today without any symptoms. Then the next 2 times I drove the car it was back.

Throttle cable is good. I've checked the vacuum hoses and I can't see anything noticable.
I've had the intercooler off and can't see/feel any noticable leaks on the intake after the AFM to the throttle body. A while ago I hooked a boost guage up and Vacuum at idle and boost seemed fine.

THe car drives fine once its pulling through a gear all the way, boost is good, no hesitation, its just I cant change without thudding the drivetrain or coast at any constant speed. Problem is in the low rev range.

Just a question. Is the idle control solenoid supposed to rotate when it is installed. It is quite loose and wobbly but the flange is tight. When the engine is running and I push and pull on the ICS I can speed up and slow revs slightly and I can rotate it 360.

Playing with it a bit seems to induce this problem. If you gently try to hold revs in neutral it seems alright to about 1500rpm then at around 2000 it goes crazy up/down then after a few loops of that it burbles like its on 3 cylinders and CEL comes on till I release the throttle and it falls back to 600rpm then CEL goes out. Then revs raise slightly.

When driving and I put the Air con on, it also makes this problem appear quicker.

It logically seems it may be TPS, I need to check the votages. But the ICS - I'm hoping it's not suppose to rotate/move like that, but it looks like that was the way it was designed and it has been like that since day one.

As we all know it sucks to keep throwing parts at cars/machines with hope each new part will fix it and it never does. In my experiences it seems that's what a lot of crap mechanics do and charge you $1,000's for the previlidge.

I'm hoping someone has had the exact same problem and can nail it on the head.

Thanks

No, nothing on the outside should be able to move, the body is supposed to be fixed to the flange.

How did it get broken? Someoene smack it with something?

The only part that should move is the valve piston (black tapered piece on the right in this photo).

__________________
[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]