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  #1  
Old 22-06-2011, 03:24 PM
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Default Rollcage discussion thread

Ive decided to start with the cage as that will be the most time consuming part then work from there. ill have a look at the octagon regulations as my ultimate goal is targa tasmania
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Old 22-06-2011, 05:23 PM
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I was never very happy with the bolt in half cage I got from bond. When it comes time to do a weld-in in mine, I will be getting one of these

Subaru Impreza 4dr GC8 Int GrpN Roll Cage - Custom Cages Ltd, UK

Another member here recently ordered one and even getting slugged ~$450 gst+duty it was $2100 to his door. pre profiled, pre cut, ready to weld in
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Old 22-06-2011, 05:46 PM
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^^^ Spot on matt. Cant go wrong with the Custom Cages if you want to go Cro Mo, but word of advice, make sure you check with CAMS first to be sure the cage for your model car is certified recently enough to still pass the current certification process. Can get very expensive with cro mo if it doesnt.

Alternativly just do CDS cage and get someone like Brad Stacey Fabrication (0404 125 744) to make it from scratch. You would be surprised how well priced it is and his workmanship is exceptional.
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Old 22-06-2011, 06:02 PM
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excellent feedback guys, ill be running the steel cage as the inspections arent as stringent as a cromoly one (my ute has a cromoly 4-point but for ANDRA inspection)

it will be a full weld in cage aswell so definately no bolt in
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Old 22-06-2011, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jEstEr? View Post
I was never very happy with the bolt in half cage I got from bond. When it comes time to do a weld-in in mine, I will be getting one of these

Subaru Impreza 4dr GC8 Int GrpN Roll Cage - Custom Cages Ltd, UK

Another member here recently ordered one and even getting slugged ~$450 gst+duty it was $2100 to his door. pre profiled, pre cut, ready to weld in
i like it
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Old 23-06-2011, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDR RA View Post
if you want to go Cro Mo
But why on earth would you want Cro Mo????

- It's more expensive
- It's more dangerous
- The higher tensile strength is a bad thing, as it tends to snap bars or welds, resulting in failure of the cage, rather than just deforming slightly and absorbing the impact.
- Has a limited useable life before it's self hardening properties mean it start developing cracks of it's own accord, let alone before any impact
- I'm not aware of anyone in Australia who can actually weld it properly when used in a roll cage application. In Nascar, the whole car including cage is put in a big oven to temper the metal both prior to, and after welding.

There's a VERY good reason why a few years ago the FIA banned the use of all CroMo in Group A and Group N touring and rally car roll cages a few years ago (which had nothing to do with Atko's crash in Japan where the back half of the cage separated from the front half...). It's downright dangerous. Just for once I wish CAMS would follow the FIA on an issue that actually matters (like the use of CroMo in roll cages!) instead of half the petty crap they decide to instead...
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Old 23-06-2011, 08:36 AM
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^^^ Weight??
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Old 23-06-2011, 08:39 AM
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The weight argument doesn't wash with me, because although CroMo uses thinner wall thickness, you need more bars for the same overall strength. And CroMo bars aren't that much lighter...

At the end of the day, the FIA has banned CroMo on safety grounds, nothing else should matter, whether you've got a WRC car, or a early modern Targa racer..
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Old 23-06-2011, 09:29 AM
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You need to heat treat the CrMo welds, otherwise they will be fubar.

You don't need to put the whole car in an oven, but localised stress relieving of the welds is a must.

Personally, I don't think CrMo is warranted as there would be very little gain vs cost. The biggest thing is to make sure you have a gun welder who can actually weld and not just point a squirty gun and make snot appear. Full cage doing targa events... I'd also go the extra step and UT/RT the welds to make sure they are good. Minimal cost to ensure the safety system is good.
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Old 23-06-2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TarmacSTi View Post
Ive decided to start with the cage as that will be the most time consuming part then work from there. ill have a look at the octagon regulations as my ultimate goal is targa tasmania
Dont stuff around. Just buy my GC8. All ready to go and going to be a hell of a lot cheaper than building one. Has had some good results too.

I have the stock 4 pot brakes under mine and run the DBA 5000 rotors (they are 2kg a corner lighter than the 4000's) and pagid blue pads. I have tried the Ferodo's etc and always seem to come back to the pagid.

Brendon
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