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#201
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Bram, it's a plug in...my Spec C was a cable throttle, but it is specifically a WRX/STI '02-'07 Autronic...so it "could" have DBW compatibility...probably best if you check with somebody who is more in the know than me...either Sean at ASG or Dougie....
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No Subarus currently owned |
#202
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i dont think it will work with the forester then. it doesnt look like there is gonna be a plug in to suit the forester wiring harness.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#203
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got out for the last race of the wa state sprints. Had a pretty ordinary day. But managed to pull it together for the last run and actually caught the car infront for a re-run.
First run and the car was overboosting pretty bad. Was hitting 1.8bar on a tune that is supposedly wastegate pressure up top. Brakes felt great for the first corner or 2, then turned to poo. The QFM AR1Ms just cpuldnt handle the heat. So when i got back in, I ripped the TMIC off and re-routed the boost plumbing for a true wastegate pressure setup. Was under the pump time wise and only just got it back together for run 2. Got out there and the car was gutless and farting all over the place. I knew staright away it was a boost leak. Pulled off after one slow lap and sure enough, i kinked the TB coupler on my rush to get it back together. Fixed it for round 3. And got out there again. Car was driving great powerwise. Was sitting on a steady 1.5 bar going through the gears. Dont know how it only pulled 1.4bar on the dyno. Must be a boost creep thing when going hard through the gears? Anyways. 3rd run was better. Brakes were still crap, but i was getting used to it. These pads performed worse than the stock standard Wilwood 'street' pads when hot. But they perform better when cooler. So id rate the QFMs as a good street pad, but a sh1t race pad. Will call GSL and see what else they got. (they recomended the QFMs) But i forgot to dial in some DCCD. The car was very taily and i had a bit of half on half off lawn mower power slide action into the main straight haha. 4th run and things were going good. I remembered my DCCD, had a good handle on the crappy pads. And did a decent run. I actually caught the car infront and got a re-run. (didnt get a time for the 4th run. The 5th run (re-run) was almost straight after my 4th. So the car/tyres were good to go. The pads werent, but i managed to drive around it. kinda. Had a hairy moment out the back and almost overshot the corner. But overall managed a decent time. heres the morning results.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#204
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Great time on your last run dude.
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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6. |
#205
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its usualy the way with me. very inconsistent times. most days ill go out there post averages times then manage to pull one semi decent one out of the bag. good when its a day like today where only your fastest counts. no so good when you need a good average. In previous rounds theres been intances where i had faster runs than guys infront of me, but havent been able to get consistent results and place lower by average.
Hopefully ill sort the brakes and overboosting out for next year and do a bit better.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#206
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Yeti sled
Did your tuner run boost curves for each gear?
The car sounded and looked great though. |
#207
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What brake fluid you using, and had it been flushed recently?
I find the A1RM are good with fresh fluid, but will be trying the new pads that GSL are promoting now. |
#208
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i dont know? Its just a ASG verso reflash of the stock ecu. is that even possible with an 04 ecu?
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#209
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It is possible on romraider on either 16 or 32 bit ecu's so it should be possible on verso. Can do per gear boost and timing curves.
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#210
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Quote:
But alot has changed since last race. Pads. Stock Wilwoods to QFMs. Master cylinder. Forester to STi. (This should increase pedal feel and decrease pedal throw. I have kind of opposite symptoms. Rear Bias Valve. Forester to STi. (I dont think this will make to much difference to pedal feel / braking effectiveness.) Hill Holder Delete. (Shouldnt negativly affect braking at all) Twin cylinder kit and associated hardlines. (shouldnt affect braking either, unless an airlock maybe.) All lines are hardlines, so should be no 'flex' in the circuit. Ive bled the system a massive amount. put about 4 bottles of fluid through it. and i am 99% certain it isnt an airlock. The STi MC was used. But i think its in good condition. As said, it has a furm pedal and doesnt sink under force, so i think its doing what it should. My symptoms. When cool / street driving Pedal is firm. Doesnt sink to the floor. Brakes work well. Braking is very linear and i cant really fault it at all. (These QFMs actually feel better on the street than the Wilwoods.) So i dont think i have a MC issue, or any airlocks. The fluid level remains constant, and i have checked all fittings and bleeders multiple times for leaks. Im confident there is no leaks. Once hot and driven hard. The brakes lack braking effectiveness. The pedal feels squishy and you have more travel than i would expect. The braking response is linear to pedal effort. But it just lacks braking effectivness. They had a noticable fade in performance that seamed directly corellated to heat. I can only really compare to how it was before all those mods and pads change as pretty much everything changed from last time i raced in one go. But it feels like these pads are a down grade from the wilwood compound. Im sure some people like them, and they probably feel good coming from crap pads. But for me they feel like a step backwards. Again. it may not be pads. I just suspect it is. As said earlier. I only got these pads as my Wilwood order never came, and I NEEDED some pads. GSL had these in stock and also recommended them after explaining the use. But I wont be persisting with them. I have already ordered a set of EBC yellows. (just because i found a listing for these calipers.) And i may even look for another set of pads. Perhaps some genuine Wilwoods in one of thier premium compounds.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
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sled, yeti |
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