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#271
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Do you think im using too much length of brake line by going from the handbrake, up into the firewall, then back down to the rear? Or perhaps the stock rear brake line is too small a diameter? In either case, this shouldnt make much difference to the workings? After all, pressure is pressure, whether it is in a small pipe or a large pipe. Tge pipes dont have to flow any great deal of volume. (just enough to expand the pistons in the calipers) so aslong as the pressure doesnt drop off, then it shouldnt matter how small of long the pipe is.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#272
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Honestly mate I'm unsure as from what I've seen you do in theory should work. The rear calipers have no trouble locking the rear brakes when I've done it before . I had the adjustable bias valve before the handbrake and didn't use the factory bias valve at all that's the only thing I can see different . Using the manual valve to adjust brake bias isn't an issue on rally or track cars as the car is stiffer and your not carrying loads or passengers which a factory valve will compensate for
Sent from under my Dok Dok |
#273
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do ypu think there might be some other restrictor in the circuit? At the rear of the car under neath near where the diff oitrigger frame is, there is a brake line union on each side for the rear brakes. Do you think these may be sone type of restrictor?
If youve done it by totoally running new lines to rear, then it would bypas them. (if they are infact a restriction and not just a union.)
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#274
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Possibly I've honestly. Never had the amount of trouble that you have encountered,but again haven't done it with abs . But can tell you for sure that the rear brakes lock on Tarmac and wont just slow the car down I wonder if through the abs the fluid is able to move to the front circuit as well when you pull the hand brake and it spreads the effort.
Sent from under my Dok Dok Last edited by amtrapid; 21-12-2015 at 08:59 PM. |
#275
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I was at mms last week a few of there cars run that sti set uo might be worth a call or visit and asking
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#276
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Where have you connected the "outputs" from the handbrake cylinder to the rear brake lines?
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#277
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Quote:
Basically the hydraulic circuit goes as follows. Main tanden master cylinder > ABS valve block > rear proportioning valve > handbrake master cylinder > rear caliprs. The main master cylinder is a GDB STi item. (Larger bore than SG Forester) I have totoally removed and bypassed the hill holder, which used to be inbetween the main master and the ABS. In its place is a hardline i bent up to totoally remove it from the system. The proportioning valve is also a GDB item. (Unsure if different to SG Forester, but suspect it is due to different brakes on both vehicles.) Front brakes are Wilwood FNSL6R calipers. Rear brakes are GDB STi Brembos. (Overhauled and painted before fitting) Handbrake master cylinder is a Group N STi / AP Racing inline tandem with 7/10 inch bore. (Freshly overhauled before fitting.) [
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Doing it for all the wagons out there Last edited by Bram; 22-12-2015 at 02:49 PM. |
#278
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My current suspicion is perhaps the brembos just dont have enough piston volume? Maybe i need some AP 4 pot rears to really lock it on hard?
I reckon i could make the car skid if i yanked it while turning. But it will not lock up in a straight line. Maybe im expecting too much from it?
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#279
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Quote:
What size / compound tyres you running because I imagine a 235 or 245 semi-slick would possibly outgrip the clamping pressure of your rear Brembos in a straight line situation. A simple (not cheap) solution is to, as you suggested, go to a larger rear brake set-up. Once you have the car turning in then you can use the handbrake and vehicle inertia to overwhelm the tyres a lot easier.
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MY01 JDM EVO VII - 230KW / 430NM @ 1.6BAR |
#280
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If u wanna do some testing i have heaps of paddock we can tare up ...my lancer was great fun handbrake drifting around haha
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sled, yeti |
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