Yeah. Its the Exedy ceramic-metalic Hyper Compe-D twin plate. I think its like the standard Hyper twin with an extra light flywheel? I think the "Compe" part designates the light wieght flywheel? And the "D" part means dampened clutch discs? And i guess the"Hyper" part means either ceramic-metalic or it means Exedy Racing clutch??? (Who knows with Japanese brand naming? Tein coilovers would always crack me up with crazy names like "ultimate spec super racing circuit master" or "low down spec cool master" or "drift spec super drift side ways master")

The current clutch i have in the car is the Exedy Carbon-D twin. And i found it to be an awesome clutch to race on. It had amazing pedal control/modulation. It was quick and light, and allowed the box/engine to shift quick and wws very direct. But it required pre-heating when cold other wise it would slip like a mother fucker. Once warm it would be great and never had any complaints (until now). It was noisy as as hell when you disengage the clutch. (Sounds like a bucket full of rocks in spin dryer, but who cares on a racing clutch)

Now since the new tune its been a bit of bitch. Takes longer and longer to heat up enough. Way longer than it ever used to. And now sometimes it doesnt even hold the torque even when hot. But i cant complain. It cost me a few hundred used, and i got 1.5 yrs of racing on it, and a small amount of street driving. So i got my values worth out of it.

Since we throwing up pics of Exedy clutchs, here the Carbon D. Hahaha

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

It's fair to say sorting this release bearing issue has been a fucking nightmare.
Gearbox has been off and on the car four times this past week and full assembly of everything was required each time as we could only test with the engine running.

Firsly I'd used a worn plastic tool to align the plates up only to find it hadn't aligned the second one properly so it all had to come apart as it wasnt located right.

Then when we got it back together properly the new bearing wouldn't travel far enough to operate the clutch. Off it came again.

Next we tried a spacer only to find that it was too big and the clutch was on permanently so down it came again.

So we got all the specs we needed and worked out where everything needed to be. Fitted a 2mm spacer on the bearing back plate and the bugger still wouldn't work.

Then I realised I'd changed the clutch master cylinder to a GC8 one as the original was too near the turbo and was cooking the fluid. So I sourced an original Hawkeye one. Which, when I had both in my hand, I realised was bigger and would push more fluid through it. As the AP bearing was a fair bit bigger than the Competition Clutch one the GC8 cylinder just wasn't upto the job.

I swapped the master cylinder over, bled it up and it still didn't work straight away.
With a bit more bleeding and some adjustment of the master cylinder rod the issue was finally sorted.

An absolute pig of a job but the upside is the AP bearing, now that it works, is so much better than the original one. The biting point is now half way up the peddle instead of the first inch or two.

It will mean I won't stall the bugger as much and it will also mean for a better gear change too as I have far greater feel through the AP racing bearing.

Roll on drag racing season when it arrives here.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

What diameter clutch master was gc vs gd? Just wanna check sg forester and make sure it has the same as what should be on a 6spd gd.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

GC was 5/8s GD is 1 and 1/16th. They are stamped on the side.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Thanks. Appreciate it.

I would assume the SG be the same as GD. As most stuff kinda is, but def worth checking given the SG originally had a 5spd.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

I have a gd master on mine but i have fabbed a bracket to mount the fluid on the other side of brake master


using the Perth-WRX mobile app

Funnily enough that's today's job. Do you have any better pictures?

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

I re bent the stock bracket and using the rear strut bolt to attach to
Im out atm otherwise id get more for ya
using the Perth-WRX mobile app

Looking at my 5spd master, it has "11/16" cast on the side. And it also has a "1" cast on another location.

The slave has "13/16" cast on its size.

I guess the interaction will be alot like hydraulic brakes. A bigger diameter master will decrease pedal travel and increase required pedal force. A smaller diameter master will increase pedal pedal travel, but increase pedal force.

I might leave it as it, and see what the feel is on the new clutch. Its not hard to replace master or slave on a standard setup compared to the hassle of a slave that hides inside the bell housing.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Just checked my spares shelf. I also have another clutch master and it is also "11/16". But it has a "2" cast on it inplace of where my original has a "1". I am pretty certain the one on my car is the original 5spd forester item and the one on my parts shelf is what came with my 6spd gearbox conversion parts from IM.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there