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  #91  
Old 24-03-2009, 06:58 PM
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Installed a fuel pressure reg as part of the build. T'd a pressure gauge into it temporarily today, and watched the needle stay perfectly solid while it was miss-firing.

Cypher Industries (where the car is) has Datalogit, and we have studied the map many many times. No issues there.
Have reset the PFC multiple times, and installed a variety of other base maps... still get the same issue. Thanks for the offer and notable suggestions. Much appreciated.

When we advance and retard the timing, the problem is still there, however, it shifts the rev range that it miss-fires in...

Trying a borrowed PFC tomorrow, to see if my computer itself is fried. Everything we try and test points towards the electrical side of things, so after replacing all sensors without any luck, I think it's worth swapping out the ECU.

I'm in two minds, part of me wants it the be the PFC itself, beacuse we're sick to death of diagnosing...
The other part of me doesn't want it to be PFC, because i dont have the $$ for a replacement.
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  #92  
Old 24-03-2009, 08:56 PM
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obviously checked the coils, engine earths, leads , plugs, injector pulse ect
try getting another ecu check see if that works and if that goes bust id get a oscilloscope and start probeing *easy fix take it to a auto eleky preferably autospark.
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  #93  
Old 05-09-2009, 04:39 PM
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Hey matty, wondering how those cams went? Like them? Agressive sounding and good performance gains?

Unfortunatley i am in need of cams to go with my Ver 6 STi heads i have recieved (dont ask). They are shim under buckets and was wondering how the cosworth 272's went? Its a tossup between Kelfords and cosworth. Also, not sure if i should go a 264/264 or 272/272. Being shimunder im not scared of too much lift within the cam duration as its less likely to drop a shim like the shimovers the normal wrx got. However, will the 272's be too big? Can you have TOO big a cam?

Thanks for any advice possible.

Eric
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  #94  
Old 07-09-2009, 12:00 AM
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Bump, any insight to Kelford/Cossie cams at all?
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  #95  
Old 07-09-2009, 11:17 AM
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matt, have ur problems been sorted, and if so what were they?
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  #96  
Old 07-09-2009, 11:26 AM
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I think Matt is away for work atm... so maybe give him a few days to reply!

p.s - get cams already Eric...
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  #97  
Old 07-09-2009, 01:34 PM
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lol, im still finding out if its just the cams that are rooted. One of the inlet cams was very hard to turn even out of its constraints yet all the buckets looked brand new. I think ill just go with whatever leigh recommends or something simular with cosworth.
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  #98  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:32 PM
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Ok im going with 119-C Kelfords (i think hehe) which are specced to be 264 duartion inlet/exhaust and a 10mm lift (not that anyone would really care :P).
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  #99  
Old 20-09-2009, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy S View Post
I think Matt is away for work atm... so maybe give him a few days to reply!

p.s - get cams already Eric...
Actually, quite the opposite Jimmy, I'm on the formus flat out during my 28days away, and tend to spend my 9 days off out and about (generally doing car stuff)...

Anyway, it's well and truly update time I'm thinkning.

As many of you know, I ran into all sorts of electrical related issues when we got my engine back in the car. Just to re-cap, it ran fine, but when engine bay temps got to 90degress plus (sitting at traffic lights idling etc...) it developed as spark cut/misfire. Crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, AFM, coil pack, leads, plugs, engine bay wiring harness, and eventually power FC were all replaced. Yet the problem remained.
We had suspicions that the adjustable cam gears i had purchased were causing the problem, so we put the standard passanger side intake cam pulley (the one with the cam angle sensor/sender magnet) back on. This affected where (what rev range) the misfire occured, indicating that it was an issue relating to the cam angle sensor signal. So we installed filters and electromagnetic shields, extra earths, re-routed this section of wiring and spent hours on datalogit and other software to identify where the signal was breaking down, and where the interference was coming from. All to no avail...

So I went to JWS and picked up a complete wiring loom for a ADM 99 wrx, pulled my dash out (for the third time during this build) and intended to do a complete wiring harness swap. Not a fun job, but in my mind, every other avenue had been exhausted.
Harness I picked up ended up being JDM, and by the looks of the instrument cluster plugs, not even MY99.
I swore... lots.

Aaaaanyway, a lot of you will remember Nick (vf34), and his immaculate MoTeC powered MY99. Well, quite a lot of the parts from his car have ended up on mine, when he returned to stock. Unfortunately, he sold his MoTeC, but fortunately, sold it to a good friend of Zac from cypher's.
Long story short, we borrowed the MoTeC, and low and behold, my problems dissappeared.

Nick still had his MoTeC M48 MY99 adapter harness, so I bought this off him, and ordered an M48 also.

I finally got the car on the dyno for it's first propper tune last week (I ran it in on my power FC over 4 months or so). Unfortunately I dont have my dyno chart on me, but will post it up as soon as I can.

Mechanically, my build is nothing extreme. The 207 is internally stock, and pretty much the only performance (power wise) mods that i didn't have on my ej205 previously are:
272 cosworth cams
ported/pollished intake manifold
match ported heads
unequal headers

+intake, fuel and exhaust mods to suit.

My old 205 made 247hp atw on 1.3 bar.

The new motor made 245hp (on the same dyno) at just over 12psi.
3 hours later, Zac had tuned it up to 18.5psi and it made 282hp (in tuning mode on the dyno, not shootout. So could quite possibly read higher in shootout mode)

We pushed just over 19psi into it, and it made a whopping 260hp
It seems that my either:
a) my old BOV is leaking.
b) actuator is dicky
c) VF34 is on its last legs.

But after 4hrs on the dyno on a bitterly cold saturday morning, neither of us were in the mood to get the tools out.

I will post up the dyno chart. The boost comes on extremely hard, and pulls al the way to 7+k. I was concerned that the fairly large cams, km's of cooler piping, and a comparatively small turbo would push the power so far to the right that it would be useless power on the road, and no fun to drive... Man was I wrong!

Cold start tune need work, and the tune generally needs leaning a little accross the board. But for only 4 hours on the dyno, from nothing to a very reliable 282hp, I'm very happy.
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  #100  
Old 20-09-2009, 08:52 AM
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Good to hear that the wagon is up and running again mate!!

Must be nice to have some boost behind you now

So on the last run at 19psi and at a lower hp reading were they able to diagnose the problem??
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