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#31
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Graph looks a bit woobly to tell you the truth, should've got an STI with Red Mudflaps.. that's good for another 100HP at least.... tehe.
I had MMS tune my last WRX with a butler TBE.. had great results, will be taking mine there once it's ready (or my wallet is ready).
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2016 Levorg GT-S Old man spec. |
#32
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Quote:
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#33
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Quote:
Power (well torque actually) at the wheels is what makes you go fast. On an AWD car it's probably about 80% of the engine power. On a RWD car it's probably about 90% of the engine power. A hub dyno removes the wheels as they add in extra inconsistencies, but by removing the wheels, they give a slighlty higher figure than a roller dyno. Always use a dyno as a tool. Set a baseline. Don't get your knickers in a knot because someone in America with the same mods made 3hp more than you. They all vary, look only at your baseline. Once you have that compare any future mods and dyno runs to that baseline. If you want a 1000hp dyno plot, find someone with a dyno dynamics dyno, slip the operator $50 and make sure he has a hot cup of coffee to drink when you do your run.
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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR] |
#34
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Quote:
This is based on some cars that were dynoed on both dynos in the same gear etc etc. Yes there are differ factors that come into account but gives a good indication on the differ power read outs of both dynos.
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221.7KW-ATW 498.5NM MMS ROLLER DYNO & BUILT BY STi NINJAS, BUILD #318/600 EBISU SUBARU, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO |
#35
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Engine Dyno, as used by most OEM -
hub dyno, as used by ASG, EV0R etc Roller dyno, as used by MMS, Racetorque etc An Engine dyno is the most repeatable, consistent, accurate dyno, but they are fairly expensive to operate and hence only used by car manufacturers / very high end workshops. An engine dyno reads directly from the back of the crank so is the most "accurate" for the "true" horsepower value. This is where subaru come up with a magical number (eg 195kw) When you add to that the force required to spin the clutch, gearbox, tailshaft, 4 driveshafts, 4 hubs and brakes all attached to woobly stock rubber mounts on a hub dyno, you can see where some of the loss comes from. I've yet to see someone come up with an accurate, real world magical number on how much loss is involved, but there are certain rules of thumb (see kato and jdmstyles's posts) which will give you a rough idea. The values are measured at the wheel hub of the car, and thats why you get your lower figure (say 180kw) The roller dyno is the least accurate of the 3 as it adds the rolling mass of the wheels. The benefit of a roller though is being able to get cars on much quicker (not needing to remove the wheels and align the hub packs). Some people think this is the most "accurate" final figure as its the power measured at the tyre treads and that's what the driver experiences in the real world, but its normally found via torque generated and then calculated back to give a "flywheel figure". Where a roller loses out is the 4 spinning wheels have a flywheel effect and can greatly smooth out tune inconstancies which would show up on a hub or engine dyno questions?
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MY93 Impreza GX 1.8L, 0hp, 0nm |
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#36
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Bum dyno?
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[B][COLOR=red]Jerk of the circle.[/COLOR][/B] |
#37
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questions, yes... well i see what you mean by 195kw at engine. still not sure how it "loses" so much AFTER the tbe and tune... 170awkw on roller dyno.. i understand they are far different, but i didn't think it was by that much...
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#39
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Because Physics.
/thread |
#40
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It didn't loose anything, 195fwkw is less power than 170awkw. Its not that hard really.
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500+hp and helis on tap, eta - June 2025. |
Tags |
2012, mods, wrx |
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