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Brendon

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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing....

My mate has a 99 2 Door V5 STi for sale, CAMS Compliant rally car with cage and parts for both tarmac and gravel if that tickles your fancy. Think he wants just below 20k for it but I think youd get away with 16 or 17 if his wife is around to nag him to sell it!

I'm sure you would be surprised for what you can get in the way of weld in cages and how little they can be had for. If you don't require to many extra supports, side intrusions etc etc.

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2016 Subaru Outback - Work Wagon
350NM of CVT Goodness
Pit Crew, shit talker.

I'm sorry what??!?!?!?

repeat this as many times as possible

DO NOT SCRIMP ON SAFETY

Do you have any idea how much it hurts to run into an immovable tree sideways at lass than 60km/hr??

Fit every fkn bar you can and every bit of safety between you, your co driver and the big tree less than 100mm away form the side of the road.

Shit goes wrong accept it and plan against it.

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RS RA
The more people I meet the more I like my Dog!

12.463 1/4 mile, not bad for an old school Liberty [DECEASED]

MY08 Liberty Tuned by STi

Ok to clear things up. This is the cage i woyld be putting in the car if i end up with a swift.
Multi point, t45 steel and less than 1500buk before tax and shipping. So by the end of it all near the 2k mark just for the tubes. They also have a 6 point in a cheaper steal that is half the price but i have not deciphered the cams regs yet on roll cages so as of right now im budgeting for a multi point.

Suzuki Swift MK2 95-2001 Multipoint Roll Cage - Custom Cages Ltd, UK

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The one perkent...

Do your own cost/risk analysis. Sure it would be great to have a $10000 rollcage, $2000 helmet, $1000 harness, $1500 Hans, $1500 driving suit, the latest/biggest brakes, WRC spec tyres, Carbon seats, Personal trainer/masseur at service. But unless you have a WRC budget, then you are going to have to do without some of these things. I feel you can get 90% of the safety for 30% of the price, then just get out there and do some events.
Everything we do each day has risk involved, and unconsciously we do a risk analysis in our heads, so I feel it is no different with motorsport, you look at the risks, and make up your own mind on the safety required (within the minimum regs), and drive to the conditions.
Or would could all just sit in padded rooms all day, so there is no risk of stubbing our toes, or getting a paper cut.

Oh and a Swift will need some strengthening in the front end and probably the cage going to the strut towers, to survive a couple of seasons of rallies in the WARC.

Wavey.

What is involved in strengthening the front end?

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The one perkent...

I would try to get in touch with Ross MacKenzie (spelling?) who used to run a GTi in the 90's and ran Rospen Motorsport. Or the Kinnears who ran quick GTis 8 or so years ago. There should also be some knowledgeable people on the Suzuki forums, who should know the weak spots on the shell. I would imagine within the engine bay, it would need some good plating around suspension mounts, engine mounts, strut tops, chassis rails etc:

I remember a mk1 GTi road car that we used to own had a few cracks around the clutch cable mount on the firewall, and some cracks where the crossmember bolted to the body. The body was pretty bloody thin, which made it so light, and therefore great fun!

Just remember after the initial purchase price it will cost about the same to prepare a car, as all of the safety equipment is a standard price, brake pads cost the same, struts should cost the same, paint should cost very similar. So at the end of the day, you could have started with a $3000 Gti and have a rally GTi that cost you $13000, or start with a $6000 GC8 and end up with a rally GC8 that cost you $16000..

Just some other points for you to think about...

Mk 1 Swifts are notorious for cracking the floor pans where the cross members bolt to it.
Not so bad on the Mk 2/3. The suspension arms are fragile enough for road use, never mind rally.

I love these cars and still have two of them, but would also vote for buying a (partially) built one. Might know of one. Will PM you later in the week if still available.

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A nation of sheep will beget a government of wolves.

If i was you i would go for the steel cage over the t-45. Two reasons....

1) you can mig weld a steel cage but you have to tog weld a t-45 cage. The cost of install is significantly more.
2) a t-45 cage has to be properly engineered and is all too hard to get done yourself whereas a steel cage is far easier to get logbooked.

Expect to pay about $5k for a steel cage installed and $8-$10 for an installed t-45 cage.

Also i 100% agree with shane. What you are going to do is inherently dangerous. Do whatever you can to make it as safe as possible. Imho if you cant afford a winged seat and a hans device you cant afford to go racing.

Brendon

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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing....