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  #11  
Old 29-11-2010, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALISTC View Post
O RLY?

Sean seems to think its 100, but last time I checked I swear it was lower than that.. so even at 100 its not an issue?

Light was on the cusp of flicking on and off, so it wasn't getting SUPER hot, but yeah enough to warrant me changing the coolant for something a bit better!!

The oddest thing is that the temp gauge sat ever so slightly lower than normal before the light came on, but not LOW as in when there is no coolant in the system!!! We all know how crap those stock gauges can be, so I'm not going off that at all.
ECU controls it Joe.. mine was intially set at 98.. but i since moved it down to around 85 as at idle if it got up to 98 before the fans kicked in then it would get too hot.. But im more sensitve due to the turbo being lcoated near the rad..

I cant see it hurting if the fans are on sooner rather than later..
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  #12  
Old 29-11-2010, 02:10 PM
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OEM is definitely 95deg fan switch on for H4, and 98deg switch on for H6
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  #13  
Old 29-11-2010, 02:22 PM
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CDR RA above said it all.
note particularly that Redline WaterWetter conducts heat better than water or the usual 'coolant' mixes.
Yes it gives no anti-freeze protection, not a problem in Perth.
Looking at the original post, I'd still give the cooling system a good check.
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Old 29-11-2010, 02:26 PM
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Yeah I'm going to make sure everything is sweet.. Starting with the thermostat!
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  #15  
Old 29-11-2010, 02:32 PM
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Do not trust $20 of inhibitor on a $10k engine.

W/w works in combination with normal coolants (it's merly a high temperature detergent/surfectant that breaks down the surface tension of the coolant & allows it to 'wet out' surfaces better).

They state for racing use the best heat transfer is when it is used straight with distilled water.

I would never trust it alone for an alloy blocked engine......Anyone say electrolosis?

I have used it on my own cars with glycol based coolants for a 2-3 degree reduction in temps.......It does not play well with OAT type coolants.
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Old 29-11-2010, 02:55 PM
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^^^ Well, redline here and in the US would beg to differ on its ability to protect alloy engines. I have used it for about 10 years without issue. I had simialr concerns originally due to its "race use only" guidelines, btu after seeking their advice and using it for myself, havent had an issue.
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  #17  
Old 29-11-2010, 03:18 PM
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Slako is the redline Agent here.....And Cov's used to be the sole warehousing agent.

It says it CAN be used straight.
It also used to say drain the system during the off season if used with out any other inhibitor.

Horses for courses.

Like I said before I use it, it does work, but I'd never use alone in a street car.
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  #18  
Old 29-11-2010, 03:33 PM
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100 c isnt going to cook it if the coolant system is working and efficient. Very normal to be tipping on 100+ when you're doing track time. These car's we're built to be abused.
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  #19  
Old 29-11-2010, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXPLICIT View Post
100 c isnt going to cook it if the coolant system is working and efficient. Very normal to be tipping on 100+ when you're doing track time. These car's we're built to be abused.
WHS.. ive been told numerous times that 110 is still in range..
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  #20  
Old 29-11-2010, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco View Post
Slako is the redline Agent here.....And Cov's used to be the sole warehousing agent.
And thats relevant because??

Each to there own but my experience has shown there is no need for the coolant.

i guess if you are really worried, go for a dual pass PWR ally radiator.
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