It's relevent because I sold Redline products for 8 years.

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Right.......

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Rotor of Fail
Ducati 998s
Ducati Streetfighter S
496 CI Injected Big Block. Carbon positive???

Dont you know Blaise! Selling stuff > Using and running and having experience with stuff....

LOL

<3 Rossco.

is there a chance that it could have just been an air bubble in the cooling system from your recent mods etc joe? tried to find you yesterday but fuct if i could even find the a/l stand, where was it?

Not subarus but pretty certain Rover Tech use it in all the land rovers they service(had Redline water wetter in mine) and seemed good, he rekons it works well.. Landys known for needing to be topped up! and deff not for race use

Yep your correct, I don't know shit.

I just need a weekend warrior to tell me how it really is.































You are kidding yourselves if you think it's a long life anti-corrosion product.

The end.

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

*You're

haha i was only jokin big fella, but i wouldnt disregard Blaises input on it.

My reply was toungue firmly planted in cheek.

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Its one thing to experiment with different coolants when you are racing... But if you are having problems keeping your engine cool with only genuine subaru coolant during day to day driving then the coolant isn't the problem.

thermostat, radiator, cap(s) and heater core would be the first place to look.

A few months back after I did my 2.5L upgrade. I noticed on the PFC hand controller I was regularly running up to 98 degrees during day to day driving. This was happening even though I had all new hoses, new thermostat, fresh coolant, a 40mm thick all alloy radiator and my thermo fans kicking in a 92 degrees. 98 degrees is not overheating or too hot. But I knew this was a little outside of the usual temps I prefer to run. And if the fans are kicking in a 92, it is not normal for the coolant temp to continue to rise to 98 before starting to come back down.

Turned out my 20 year old heater core wasn't flowing enough coolant through it. The heater core coolant circuit is vital to the operation of the thermostat. So I did a semi-bypass on the heater hoses heading into the fire wall. Using a "H" brass piece, I setup the coolant flow so that 50% of coolant flow would go through the heater core and the other 50% would bypass the heater core altogether and run back into the system heading straight back to the thermostat.
The increased flow of hot coolant back to the thermostat meant the thermostat would open much more than before and I was back to running the normal cooler engine temps.

I now run 86-89 degrees when cruising and it now never goes over 93 degrees when stationary. And the heater core still works 100% fine in winter.

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RS Liberty - Because WRX's are only good for parts...

I am guessing I am that weekend warrior? I am not quite sure what you mean by that, care to elaborate?

Sounds like someone needs a hug....

Not disputing what you are saying as I am guessing its based on product literature and not real life experience. My experince and the info I gor from the US differs. Maybe redline in the US need to be a bit more careful with the information they offer up. The info was given to me from their tech department in an email. Was quite some time ago so dont have it any more. I only asked them as I had the same concerns. Ran the car for several years with no issues. Periodic turbo changes etc where radiator was out with no evidence of corrosion in it or in the visibile areas of the water galleries. Maybe sometimes companies are a little conservative in their advice to avoid issues?

Anyway, opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one, and I am only sharing my experience. Take it or leave it. If you have concerns, play it safe and mix it with your coolant.

Rossco, ever had any real life evidence of people using water wetter on its own causing corrosion issues????

This all sounds alot like the E85 debate and the suggestion it is highly corrosive and it will eat your engine from the inside out and you needed to flush with pump 98 etc etc etc blah blah blah..., but in reality it was alot of uninformed scaremongering by people who werent actually using it. Real life use of the product doesnt concur....I digress.

Joe, on a side note the E85 should help your car run noticably cooler.

Here is some reading. First up the redline site where they do claim it has rust and corrosion protection, granted they drop the word racing in there, and suggest reduced levels of antifreeze in warm climates, so maybe follow that advice to be safe. Following that the two standards it meets. While they arent completely conclusive tests for prolonged use, (there are other standards to test that) they do demonstrate the product has corrosion inhibition qualities.

The choice as to whether you rely soley on this product is up to you. I was tracking the car a bit so wanted the colling system at maximum efficiency. I had no noticeable corrosion issues over approx 2-3 years use. I woudl generally change it once a year. But if you want to be sure, use your coolant.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D2570.htm

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D1384.htm

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Rotor of Fail
Ducati 998s
Ducati Streetfighter S
496 CI Injected Big Block. Carbon positive???