No mate I was toying with Russ not you buddy!

Yes, I had an issue with a 13b that ate it's external rotor housing water jacket o-ring slots when using water wetter & distilled water alone, it was double dosed.....An extreme example perhaps because they are essentially a battery when bolted together (steel end plate,alloy rotor housing,steel center plate,alloy rotor housing,steel end plate) & that promotes electrolysis in the alloy rotor housings.

I still use it in all my Subaru's but I run at least 25% glycol based coolant with it to be safe.

The Blue water wetter for Diesels (No inhibitor) works a treat in Toyota's too.

I had a warm fuzzy $500 usd hug from an online vendor today for uncovering a redirection from their web store to a fake one......So I'm good for hugs...

From the horses mouth, Redline Tech info snippits:

BENEFIT SUMMARY
•Doubles the wetting ability of water
•Improves heat transfer
•Reduces cylinder head temperatures
•May allow more spark advance for increased
torque
•Reduces rust, corrosion and electrolysis
•Provides long term corrosion protection
•Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
•Prevents foaming
•Reduces cavitation corrosion
•Complexes with hard water to reduce scale

USE DIRECTIONS
One 12 ounce bottle treats 12-16 quarts of water or a
50% ethylene or propylene glycol solution. In smaller
cooling systems, use 4-5 caps per quart. Add directly
through the cooling system fill cap into the radiator or
into the overflow tank. Do not open a cooling system
while hot. For best protection for aluminum, replenish
or replace every 15,000 miles. The anti-scaling ingredients
in Red Line WaterWetter® allow its use with
ordinary tap water. However, using with distilled or
deionized water will accomplish some scale removal
in the cylinder head area. Plain water with or without
WaterWetter® should not be used in cooling systems
containing magnesium - antifreeze should be used -
with WaterWetter®. For maximum temperature
reductions use the most water and the least
antifreeze possible to prevent freezing in your climate.
Even in summertime the use of air-conditioning
can blow freezing air through the heater and cause
freezing of the heater core unless approximately 20%
antifreeze is used. Red Line WaterWetter® is available
in 12 ounce containers.

All info here: http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...ech%20Info.pdf

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

ive had temps over 120 degrees logged on a hot summer day through the old canning dam road.

for the ecu, i trip the fan on at 95 degrees, trip back off at 90.

with a koyorad, you'd be lucky to get temps over 100 degrees without being low on water to start with...

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Long live the WRC

On a side note, I "burped" my cooling system today.. had only a tiny bit of air in it, but I drove the car in the heat again with no problems

Coolant is full and super clean, oil looks like the day I put it in the car.

I'm still going to run water wetter and change thermostat, etc, just to be safe.

Don't think the thermostat is an issue unless it's not opening, or your looking for it to open at a lower temperature, and this won't help with higher temps anyway (if its stuck open the car will take a long time to reach normal temp)

Possibly need to upgrade the thermo fan to a bigger or more efficient unit(s) if seeing high figures. (remember water boils at atmospheric conditions, sea level, at 100c, adding coolant and changing the pressure, which happens in an engine, changes this)

Low speed, and sitting behind other vehicles will always see higher temps as your solely relying on the thermo fan, and the boiling point of the fluid in the radiator for effective cooling.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

^^^ That can't happen. No way on a Subaru. Maybe on a poorly designed American Canyonero?

I just highlighted what is in their info sheet.

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

water and distilled or de-mineralised water only works a treat.

change it yearly though.

I have personally never seen a corrsion problem using it like this.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Yep, I know, and I know you know. I wanted to point out that their broad wording was basically ass covering before we get a load of posts about frozen heater cores.

Background info:
The design power handling capacity of the WRX cooling system is 400kW (or thereabouts from memory).
I doubt there are many vehicles even on this forum in that range.
I still use Redline waterwetter tho. No problem after ~9 years.
Using distilled water in the mix gives slightly better corrosion protection than using tap water. Same applies to the usual commercial 'coolants'. changing every year would be good practice, more for corrosion protection than cooling performance.

Joe, you mentioned putting the heater on, I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure after pulling a few Subi's apart that it's a constant flow core without a tap and all you are managing to do is open some flaps and heating the inside of the car making sfa difference to engine temp unlike older cars where it would give you a larger cooling area.

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Beaten up old 98 Gen 2 Liberty, 13.0, stock V3 STI running gear.
07 Transit motor home
69 VF & 70 VG Valiants needing full restoration
Yamaha Zooma 50cc rocket hopefully going with the Transit.