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  #871  
Old 06-01-2019, 06:10 PM
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Got the seat in and put the harness bar in. I have to make sure 100% that its all in the correct posistion before welding it in hard. Given that it is so close to the rear of the seat, the verticle hieght of the bar has a very large impact on the angle of the harness strapping. CAMS call for anywhere between 0 horizontal, and 45 down. With the ideal recommended hieght being between 0 and 10.

With my seat in place, I get a range between 0 and 42 depending on where abouts the straps come through the opening. With me sitting in the seat, the angle will be approx 15, as my shoulders bring the strapping up to about that hieght. Which I am pretty happy with.

The other thing to note, this is measured from the top edge of the bar. When the harness is wrapped around the bar, the loop of the harness will meet and draw a line from the middle of the bar, not the top of the bar. So the angle/direction of the harness straps should be drawn from the center of the harness bar. Im not 100% sure if CAMS do it this way, or do it from the top of the bar, like in my photos show. But depending on the interpretation, this could change things.

The only other thing that may affect it is if I where a HANS, which will sit ontop of my shoulders, and therefore increase the angle a slight amount. But at the same time, the straps will compress me into the seat, which will reduce the angle.

I need to be 100% sure before I weld them in.

CAN ANYONE ON HERE CONFIRM IF I SHOULD TAKE MY ANGLE MEASUREMENT FROM THE TOP OF THE HARNESS BAR, OR THE CENTER OF THE HARNESS BAR. ????

Seat mock up by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-06_05-44-00 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Harness bar mock up. by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr
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  #872  
Old 12-01-2019, 07:44 PM
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Got the steering column mounting brackets, and dash mounting brackets welded in today. Instead of fabricating new parts, i cheated and chopped the originals out of the OEM dash bar, and trasferred them onto the new dash bar. They line up perfectly with where they need to be. Which means i got the new dash bar welded in at the correct spot. I also gutted the dash, and notched it for the tubes to pass through. So that ready to go back in when the time comes.

2019-01-12_12-21-52 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-12_12-21-59 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-12_07-14-32 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

I also test fitted my new pedal box. Its a CompBrake twin cylinder unit from the UK. Which replaces the OEM brake pedal mechanism, and mounts the 2 new AP master cylinders inside the cabin area. https://www.compbrake.com/product/su...ylinder-kit-b/

Im not very happy with it. Its a great idea, but its poorly constructed / implemented by CompBrake. It doesnt fit the car properly, the upper mount doesnt meet the upper mounting point of the firewall. Nothing major, as i can modify it as needed, just need to add some crush tubes and longer bolts, which I happen to have the perfect parts laying about to make it work. But I shouldnt have to.

The master cylinders dont fit the pedal box properly. I have to carefully die grind the radius to allow them to fit neatly. Who ever made it clearly didnt trial fit the cylinders to the frame. Again, nothing major, but I shouldnt have to.

The brake pedal lever fouls the DBW sensor. It needs to be shifted to the left atleast 10mm in order to clear it. This is bloody frustrating. Going to be alot of buggering around to get everything fitted properly. I might have to remake the entire brake pedal lever.

The pedal pad also isnt at the right angle. So im going to have to chop it off, and re-weld it on properly. Thankfully they used bugger all welds to hold it on, so it should be very easy to remove and re-posistion.

And the retards painted inside the tube that houses the balance bar bearing. Which means the balance bar bearing doesnt even fit in the tube. So im going to have to painstakingly sand, clean and polish the inner diameter of the tube so the bearing can slide in side it.

Ontop of that, the tube looks very poorly connected to the brake pedal lever. Because the way the pedal lever pulls against the balance bar tube, it relies on a very small amount of weld to allow the brakes to function. If the tube seperates from the lever, you will lose ALL brakes. So i am going to re-work it so that i am happy with it.

Ontop of that. The frame is lacking welds. I am going to put some extra welds in it as i think who ever built it must have forgot some. Its a box section bracket, made from folded 3mm sheet metal. It should be plenty strong enough, but they havent put in enough welds to hold the different sections of sheetmetal together.

Overall, Im not very happy with the unit. The idea of making a repacement pedal mechanism to house a twin cylinder setup is ingenious, it should basically be a bolt in pedal box. But the actual unit is very poorly built. They could have built it to a much higher standard. But instead have just slapped it together and half-arsed it. Braking is one area of the car that must be done right. And the CompBrake unit doesnt inspire confidence.

2019-01-12_07-14-04 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

I also built a reinforcment bracket to stiffen the firewall where the brake mechanism connects to. Basically a master cylinder brace to go where the brake booster would have gone. It is a bolt in item so that it can be removed if the need ever arises.

2019-01-12_07-22-02 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Master cylinder brace. by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr
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  #873  
Old 13-01-2019, 11:31 AM
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Not keen on ditching the dash altogether and just have the bar with a racepak / motec dash?
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  #874  
Old 13-01-2019, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XT43 View Post
Not keen on ditching the dash altogether and just have the bar with a racepak / motec dash?
I have chopped so much out of the dash now, it may aswell not be there.

I actually quite like the look of the Forester dash. Once i put the perforated pad bits back on, it wont look so ghetto.

I think I will run it for now. Its not hard to remove. I think there are about 4 screws and 2 m6 nuts holding it in now.
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  #875  
Old 13-01-2019, 12:41 PM
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2019-01-13_12-11-40 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-13_12-11-47 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-13_12-11-02 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-13_10-15-08 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-13_12-38-35 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-13_12-38-22 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr
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  #876  
Old 18-01-2019, 12:21 AM
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I've only just caught up with this. Really sorry to read of your problems regarding the engine. Absolutely amazed to read of the Galloway issues. They were always brilliant with my stuff. They line honed mine and did a sterling job. No excuses though as fuck ups go that's a fairly big one.

The cage looks amazing. Some solid work there. Keep going Bram it sounds as though it will be an absolute weapon once it's finished.
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  #877  
Old 20-01-2019, 03:35 PM
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As above, first visit to the forum for a while. Shit luck
The work above looks neat mate!
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  #878  
Old 20-01-2019, 08:33 PM
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Harness bars all welded in. Also welded in a vertical bar that links the top roof bar node into the center X node, and down to the trans tunnel. And it is all primer painted now aswell.

2019-01-20_08-02-39 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Then I got started on the front strut tower bars. These were quite challenging. There isnt really a great spot to joing them in on foresters because the strut tower is basically the firewall and gutter. And you cannot go through the gutter on the drivers side, unless you want to delete the windscreen wipers. (Which i probably will do anyways, but I didnt want to commit to it) i did find an unusual way of tieing in the strut towers though. I punched through the firewall below the gutter (which is actually the rear section of strut tower aswell on a forester) and then carried it forwards to the front edge of the strut tower. Linking it relatively high up in the turret itself. This gives me 2 points of connection into the strut towers, so although its not linked directly to the bolt circle that the strut hat meets, it should re-inforce the tower nicely still. And help to lessen any flex in that area. I will be stitch welding in the sheetmetal sections of the tower into each other and the frame rails aswell.

It took me a couple of goes to bend the tube up to where i was happy. And i didnt get the hole placement perfect the first time. I will fabricate up a sheet to tie in the area where the tube pass, and seal it off before final welding. The tube basically starts down near the front roll cage mounting foot. Then travels up, following the contour of the wheel well, it punchs through below the gutter and continues heading upwards to give clearance to the wheel, then has another bend down, just before it ties into the front edge of the tower.

I will also make a small bar to come from the node where the dash bar meets the front lateral half bar and base if the A pillqr mount, and triangulate into the front tower bar. Probably tieing in just begore where it punchs through the firewall.

2019-01-20_08-03-03 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-20_08-03-21 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

2019-01-20_08-22-31 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr
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